Lessons learned in Yorkshire (The Cleveland Way and its surprises)

Discussion in 'Trips Reports' started by Chris2901, Jul 13, 2018.

  1. Chris2901

    Chris2901 Section Hiker

    my better half and I went off from Düsseldorf to Leeds-Bradford with the expectation of getting a bit of cool breezes and spectacular cloudy skies, @gixer -like storms and sh...y food.None of it happened.
    My three assertions for this holiday:
    1. There is nothing like rain in North-England,all the greens and moors are artificial.
    2. Sheep are the true rulers of the country.
    3.After a while, you can make out differences in Full English qualities.

    Please forgive me if I recycle some pics of the "Pic of the day" thread,but I didn´t take too many pictures.

    Day 1: Flight to Leeds-Bradford and onward journey to York

    We arrived around 2pm after a pleasant flight and quick check-out .Already warm and clear blue skies.Took the "Flying Tiger" (what a name for a city bus!) into city centre to buy some gas at the Cotswold.We were quite impressed by the living and clean shopping-malls .Then the next surprise at the train station: Bought two tickets to York for 37 quid!!!:eek: WTF??? A 25 minute ride??? Okäääääyyy.
    Small disappointment:I hoped to find a couple I met in New Zealand in 1999 and from which I knew that they lived in Leeds in the Lower Briggate. A neighbour then told me that they moved away some time ago .:oops: So ,Steve and Karen Witton , if you ever read this contact me !!!


    After arrival in York around 6.30pm my first triumph : The accommodation (my wife booked :sneaky:) was..well...not that beautiful.:D Yummy dinner at a nice little Nepalese/Indian restaurant near the Minster and our first encounter with English hospitality: A group of p...ed students staggered towards us and one of the ladies asked me "Ey,you f...ing d...k ,do you know where the "Evil Eye" is?" My proper answer (of which I´m still proud) forced her friends to drag her away from me before things could get a bit out of hand. Welcome to England.:pompus:
    The Minster

    The f...ing d...k of York from behind

    Day 2 : York to Helmsley via Easingwold

    An average breakfast at the guesthouse and then the bus to Easingwold,since we missed the direct connection to Helmsley . A nice little village in the sun with some good cafés to sit and relax for the next 1,5 hours.Some smalltalk with the really friendly staff at the tourist information and then the bus took us to beautiful Helmsley. We found our way to the youth hostel where you can pitch your tent for fair 12 quid pppn but since it opened not before 5 pm we left our packs in an open storage room and went back into town for a bit of sightseeing.
    Primary objective: Enter the local Browns shop and buy a sunhat!!! Best 10 quid investment for tbe next two weeks! A stroll around town and castle and a visit at the Costcutters to get some food for the next two days.Dinner at The Royal Oak Hotel (quite good) and return to the youth hostel and official check-in. Bit of reading and fast asleep.


    A bit overpowered this tent is

    Day 3 : Helmsley to High Paradise Farm via Sutton Bank NP centre 12,7m/20,4km

    Ahhh yeah,there was something...walking.:o o: We got up quite early at 6.30 and prepared and prepared and prepared until 8.30.:rolleyeses: It was already VERY warm when we started,but the way was excellent and we made a good pace.Probably one mistake: We didn´t visit Rievaulx Abbey since we weren´t sure how long the walk would take.Ok,we corrected that later at Whitby Abbey but it would have been pretty interesting. Of course, it was boiling hot and even in Cold Kirby ("because there is always a cold wind") it was like a hairdryer in your face.Would have loved to have a longer rest at "the finest view in all England" but the lack of shadows drove us away.
    Arrival at the centre at 1 pm was a good time for a small lunch and coffee,then we were off to High Paradise Farm, a nice farmhouse with B&B or a semi-wild camping (£5 pp) and a nice tearoom (very good coffee) run by some young people.Spent some time lying and relaxing in the sun,slept early (as always).

    The beginning

    Rievaulx Abbey

    The finest view in England?

    Staff member at High Paradise Farm

    Day 4 : High Paradise Farm to Clay Bank/Great Broughton via Osmotherley & Lordstones Country Park :banghead::) 12,9m/20,8km

    Awoken and sieged by sheep at 7am we had a small breakfast and started our next stage .Since we had plenty of time and no hurry we didn´t know where it would end but there were campsites both in Osmotherley and Lordstones Country Park.In our guidebook this stage was described as the toughest day on the Cleveland Way so we were taking it easy. It was a very nice walk to Osmotherley,a cosy village with some cafés ,pubs and a small shop for resupply and... ice-cream.:hungry:
    After a longer break we felt like some more miles would be ok and headed off to Lordstones Country Park. It was not as demanding as we thought yet there were some steep ups and downs and of course the heat.When we arrived at Lordstones there was a private party,so campsite,b&b and restaurant were fully booked.What to do next? My better half was rather bad-tempered,especially after a quite arrogant comment of one staff member.:rolleyes: No other idea,we called a taxi to take us to Great Broughton and spend a night in a hotel since we ran out of food (bad planning).This meant a cheat of 3 miles since we would join the trail at Clay Bank again.Ended up in the Wainstones Hotel, reasonably priced and good rooms.The restaurant was ok,maybe a bit expensive.

    Attack of the killer sheep



    Day 5 :Clay Bank to Kildale 9,4m/15,1km

    Good breakfast and a bit of a hurry since the hotel´s shuttle service to Clay Bank left at 8am and another couple was waiting ...It began with a long,steep climb after which my wife claimed we had walked in the wrong direction.:eek::D Of course we had no map but a few C2C-walkers we met told us it was the right way...phew...With phantastic views we continued our walk to Kildale and had some brilliant cake at the one and only tearoom there.Well,we still had our food problem and the only option seemed to be to take the train to Castleton,resupply and hope to get a train back to Kildale. But once again (and not the last time on this walk) we were lucky: The couple which started with us at Clay Bank showed up ,really upset and fed up because their train back to York was cancelled and they had to take a taxi back to Great Broughton.We small-talked a little bit and told them about our little shopping-problem. They dissuaded us against relying on the train and donated their lunch-packages from the hotel to us.If you ever read this ,thank you so much again!!!:thumbsup:
    With that little problem solved we went back to the Kildale Camping Barn,about 0,5m outside the village.Nice,simple place with very friendly hosts (£10 pp in the barn,£8 if camping) AND some tins ands sweets and soft drinks etc.She recommended us to stay in the barn since there would be two groups of youths arriving who did their Prince Of Edinburgh Bronze Awards at this weekend .Ok,that´s an argument. Thank god,it turned out that the groups had to do self-guided walks and they were quite finished when they came in.We got into conversation with their youth workers and they invited us to a nearby pub for a pint or two (luck on the trail pt.2 :thumbsup:) It was a pleasant evening with interesting discussions (walking,Brexit etc).So we exchanged emails and hoped to meet again when they realise their planned cycling trip here in Germany.

    Graves and waystones
    IMG_0722.JPG IMG_E0767.JPG

    Kildale Camping Barn

    Day 6 :Kildale to Saltburn-By-The-Sea 13,2m/21,2km
    The day we hit the coast . We got up late,had a long coffee ,smalltalk with Diane again and started at 10.30am. Loads of people on the trails, MTB´s, horses and walkers.The top of Roseberry Topping was crowded so we decided not to do this little extra-tour.Whilst boiling in the heat it was easy walking and the first 8 miles were really fast.Beautiful lunch break under some trees with not-so-yummy dehydrated meals.
    Afternoon coffee and ice-cream break at the Fox&Hounds Pub down the busy road, then onwards to Saltburn via Skelton-in-Cleveland.After arrival surprise,surprise. The local campsite doesn´t accomodate tents.Thanks for nothing,you ignorant g...ts.:thumbsdown: It ended at The Spa Hotel close to the beach .£79 for the night incl. breakfast was okayish for a hotel in this location.In the evening my damaged left knee started to ache quite badly , Novalgin and Ibuprofen brought some relief.

    Cook Monument

    Roseberry Topping


    Day 7 :Saltburn-By-The-Sea
    The next day wasn´t better,so we decided to stay for another night ("No problem,Sir.This night the room will be £99!") Well,beggars can´t be choosers. What do you do with unwanted resting days? Correct, Fish&Chips at the Seaview-Restaurant (a bit overrated imho),ice-cream, tea and Scones.Healing from inside.



    Day 8 : Saltburn-By-The-Sea to Runswick Bay 12m/19,3km
    Almost pain-free we started our walk and made some quick miles to Skinningrove. What a sad and glum place. On the steep uphill out of the village I counted 304 steps/stairs that would bring you out of this wasteland.Either this or an unwanted pregnancy.But then the highlights of the coastal scenery came into view.We entered the picturesque village of Staithes with its old buldings ,narrow and steep streets,cars covered in gull-:poop: AND...Dotty´s Tearoom ,the most original place we saw on the way.The Scones were huge,tasty and the pottery and interior crazy. After a stroll through the backstreets we said goodbye to Staithes and continued to Port Mulgrave,which we bypassed and arrived at the really huge campsite of Runswick Bay (£10pp) .
    Quick pitching and a shower and then off to the pub to watch Columbia-England.Oh wow ,you suffered a lot didn´t you?;) With a good dinner and 2 pints it was a peaceful sleep...




    Runswick Bay

    Day 9 : Runswick Bay to Whitby 8,3m/13,4km

    Not much to say about this short stage.Very nice views ,good walking,heat and sheep.We passed by Sandsend and arrived at Whitby quite early.The tourist info recommended the Folly Gardens Campsite,a good choice only 15 min walk from the town centre (didn´t exactly understand the pricing,2 walkers in a tent were £15pn ).Pitching and going downtown for some Fish&Chips at the Magpie Café,which is supposed to be one of England´s best fish-restaurants. Our F&Cs were pretty good,but of course we´re not the true experts.:dude:


    Day 10: Whitby
    Sightseeing, Whitby Abbey, writing postcards and walks along the town.Digusting coffee at the Abbey tearoom,which is connected to the youth hostel.Imho a complete rip-off.

    Whitby Abbey

    Day 11: Whitby to Robin Hood´s Bay 6,7m/10,8km
    Another short stage (4 hrs with some longer breaks).This was the day when we felt a bit clueless about how to go on...If we would have been a bit quicker it would have made sense to walk some stages of the Yorkshire Wolds Way.On the other hand it was boiling hot and quite nice to walk without pressure.It appeared to be the right decision since my knee started to hurt again.Well,enough Ibu onboard and an early arrival at the campsite (Hooks House Farm £10pp).
    Wonderful views across the bay and the surrounding landscapes,extremely friendly and helpful staff. The village itself was very nice but crowded with tourists who enjoyed the cafés and shops.


    Day 12: Robin Hood´s Bay
    Day-off agaaaain...Full English disguised as "Bay Breakfast",sitting at the beach and collecting fossils,ice-cream and a bit of education in the small museums.:bookworm:

    Day 13: Robin Hood´s Bay - Scarborough 13,9m/22,4 km
    No pain,just walking again.:) It was hot,really hot.Our first rest was at Ravenscar Tearooms with the best Full English along the trail and we already had finished 4 l of water. The host told us that there had been some cliff slipping and a diversion was established somewhere between Ravenscar and Hayburn Wyke (adds about 1 mile). Honestly,at these temperatures the diversion was god-sent,since it went through the woods near Red House Farm where the were some shadows and a small river.:thumbsup:
    What a view Hayburn Wyke has to offer.Imo the most beautiful spot of the coastal part of the trail. Unfortunately, the heat took its toll after a while,we became slower and my better half suffered from headache and slight nausea ,probably a light heat stroke.We took more rests in any shadow we could find (there wasn´t much)and after nine hours we arrived at the Camping&Caravanning Park in Scarborough.Shower,Food,water,Ibu/Novalgin and sleep.





    Day 14: Scarborough - Filey - Scarborough (bus) 11m/17,7km
    Thank god my missus felt much better and we decided to finish the walk with a little cheating.We booked another night at the campsite and took only our daypack with us. Bus to downtown and a short stopover at the railway station to get out tickets to Leeds for the next day.Then we went to the beach and left Scarborough behind us.What a difference 16 kgs make to your walking .We arrived at Filey in no time enjoying a walk with clouds and drizzle !!! for half an hour...
    Well ,Filey wasn´t too nice imo and after a short break we took the bus back to Scarborough.Arrived there around 5.30pm and were surprised that the bus service ended at around 6.30pm. We catched the last bus to Scalby and headed straight to the pub for dinner and a pint.

    Behind Scarborough



    Day 15: Scarborough - Leeds
    Return.We woke up early and had enough time to clean the tent ,sort things and enjoy a good coffee and tea.Even better,our pitch neighbour offered us a lift to the railway station (Luck on the trail pt.3:thumbsup:).With that much time we reached our train with no stress and had a very relaxed train ride back to Leeds...
    ..where of course something had to go wrong.Following the link from b...ing.com we took the recommended bus to Hall Lane,left the bus and were in the middle of...what?...a no-go-area next to the prison (actually a quite nice prison:cool:). The house where our accommodation was supposed to be was a deserted rat-hole and the woman next door we asked about it seemed to be the wife of the local clan-chief and wasn´t that helpful.Ok,stay calm and have a look at the confirmation again.Ah, a different post-code.Makes sense,let´s take the bus to the other Hall Lane in Leeds,4,5 miles away...Oh,nice houses with neat gardens AND the guesthouse. Our host couldn´t stop laughing when we told the story of our arrival and was happy to show us his clean rooms,simple but ok.Went into Town by bus again ,had a wonderful Shawarma at the city market hall and bought some souvenirs for our boys and neighbours.

    Day 16: Return to Düsseldorf
    Easy and no stress at all.Bus to city centre,final Full English ,Return of the Flying Tiger,highspeed check-in,bumpy flight to Düsseldorf,train-ride back home and R.A.I.N. Yes,it rained. Of course we didn´t put on our rain-jackets which we didn´t use in two English summer weeks .:cigar:
    It´s difficult to decide what the highlights of this walk were,it was almost perfect.Beautiful landscapes,an excellent prepared and marked trail, incredibly friendly and helpful people,tons of history (not only "All creatures great and small" "Der Doktor und das liebe Vieh" in German),opinions and thoughts .The plans for our return are already made.


    Thanks for reading,folks!!!:thumbsup:

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 21, 2018
    Dr.Matchbox, Shewie, tom and 26 others like this.
  2. fluffkitten

    fluffkitten Thru Hiker

    Very nice report. :)
    Chris2901 likes this.
  3. edh

    edh Thru Hiker

    That made me laugh; are you sure you're German.
    Most entertaining
  4. Chiseller

    Chiseller Thru Hiker

    Nice to hear other folks opinion/view of Yorkshire...sadly a lot of us Yorkshire folk don't consider York as Yorkshire or Whitby etc...weird eh ?
    Glad you had an overall grand trip. Sithee
    Chris2901 likes this.
  5. Chris2901

    Chris2901 Section Hiker

    @edh : Well, regarding my English I´m almost grounded.:rolleyes: It´s getting worse and worse.Humor...yes, I grew up with "The young ones", "Bottom" and Dame Edna.:thumbsup:

    @Chiseller : I do understand it. Even I felt a huge difference in mentality between the countryside and the towns/cities.Can´t explain why,but folks were different and they liked it.
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2018
    Chiseller likes this.
  6. gixer

    gixer Thru Hiker

    Enjoyed that, good report :thumbsup:
    Chris2901 likes this.
  7. WilliamC

    WilliamC Thru Hiker

    Thanks for that - a very enjoyable report. It gives a good feel for the trip.
    There are some good encounters for "the kindness of strangers" thread.
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2018
    Chris2901 and edh like this.
  8. ZenTrekker

    ZenTrekker Ultralighter

    @Chris2901 brilliant write up Chris and well done for finishing.
    Chris2901 and edh like this.
  9. Chris2901

    Chris2901 Section Hiker

    Thanks for that,folks. I try to be as realistic as possible in my reports,otherwise it would be sterile and meaningless.Facts and data are easily researched,but that´s not "trekking" at least for me.
    Chiseller and Enzo like this.
  10. ZenTrekker

    ZenTrekker Ultralighter

    How was the Atom Chris?
  11. Chris2901

    Chris2901 Section Hiker

    It performed very well. As I mentioned before,I would have made some things different,but that´s my personal need and has nothing to do with Tom or the pack itself.Hope to be able to write a review of it in the next time.
    Chiseller likes this.
  12. Bopdude

    Bopdude Section Hiker

    Great trip report, from a guy that's been to most of what you have done and reading it through another persons perspective, great, thanks for taking the time :)
    Chris2901 likes this.
  13. fluffkitten

    fluffkitten Thru Hiker

    Oops just bought a guide book and maps for the Cleveland Way, if people didn't post nice trip reports I'd have much more money but wouldn't have gone to see so many lovely places. :D :D
    gixer and Chris2901 like this.
  14. ZenTrekker

    ZenTrekker Ultralighter

    Its awful isn't it @fluffkitten, I think trip reports should be banned from the forum!
    Ben and fluffkitten like this.
  15. Chris2901

    Chris2901 Section Hiker

    I do apologize for that.:biggrin:
    BUT: It´s the perfect reason to buy a new backpack for the Cleveland Way,isn´t it? There are no pockets in a shroud!
    ZenTrekker and fluffkitten like this.
  16. fluffkitten

    fluffkitten Thru Hiker

    Indeed. :D
    It'd be quite nice to take the Atom on that route and see how it goes for more than an overnighter.
    Chris2901 likes this.
  17. Chris2901

    Chris2901 Section Hiker

    I was VERY pleased with it,although under these Conditions my MLD Core would have been enough.:confused:
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2018
    fluffkitten likes this.
  18. fluffkitten

    fluffkitten Thru Hiker

    :D If my The Atom isn't utterly "perfect" on I may have to look at a Prospector to compliment it. :laugh:
    ZenTrekker and Chris2901 like this.
  19. Stuart

    Stuart Ultralighter

    I'm thinking of walking the coastal stretch this weekend and wondered how feasible wild camping will be. Any suggestions? I know the area quite well and I reckon it seems feasible. Water seems a problem so I imagine a need to top up in cafes along the way.
  20. Dave V

    Dave V Moderator Staff Member

    Very nice report, enjoyed that, looks like a nice trip!
  21. Bopdude

    Bopdude Section Hiker

    What part in particular ?
  22. thin bloke

    thin bloke Summit Camper

    Great stuff!!!!!!!
    lol at the killer sheep, you dont want to mess with them. They are trained to attack non-locals.................
  23. Rog Tallbloke

    Rog Tallbloke Thru Hiker

    We found a great spot just a mile or so south of Whitby. Along the cliff to the corner of the caravan park, and off down to the left. Steep path for a few feet, there's an old piece of ladder, but easy really. Pics here http://www.trek-lite.com/index.php?threads/north-yorks-moors-weekender.3570/
  24. el manana

    el manana Thru Hiker

    Very entertaining and nice alternative UK trip to the norm. Thanks for posting.
  25. tom

    tom Thru Hiker

    Nice read - thanks (and for today's reminder too). God knows where I was when you posted this :rolleyes:
    Chris2901 likes this.

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