Discussion in 'DIY & MYOG' started by Mole, Jan 30, 2016.
I will be specifiying 50% less on my next one from stormin. Your burner looks pretty much identical to the speedster so the low height suffers wind rock to the flame with the current number of vents. Would be less of an issue with a taller stove but a cone is supposed to be a low oxygen environment anyway. My myog fkeg caldera has a lot less than the paranoia generator and works very efficiently. Alternatively you could just move them up a little but this may impact the chimney effect i guess
I only put holes on the front and round the sides a bit. I started with fewer then added more, working towards the back. I found my burner overheated with too few holes, I even added a few extra holes at the top around the back to stop this.
hmm will have to think about it. I have seen some people putting less holes or no holes on a particular side and face that into the wind. But usually the wind is everywhere so not that great.
i am also thinking about a small inner ring with the exact same holes then you could rotate and adjust the hole size on the fly as you see fit.
with my fkeg i tend to wrap a secondary ti standard screen round it, makes it bomb proof for an extra 10g and doesnt seem to affect the burn any
To negate wind to flame disturbance I now build 32 mm high wick burners, With 20mm high burners the bottom vents on the cone are in direct line to any wind or breeze fluctuations.
doesnt matter with the fkeg caldera design as it has a dirty great hole at the bottom but i take your point.
Well the budget £16 ebay aluminium foil arrived from america
well protected in a box so no damage, no import duty.
great thickness, springy, quite hard, should be perfect.
Starting off simple to get to know the foil,
with my small lightweight windscreen for the fancee feast and alpkit 900ml pot.
Got to start somewhere, then they will be perfect
I have a few people that want some so i have to get it right,
Didnt fancy annealing the fold but might have to,
Will try a small radius at the corner first.
I wouldn't do a curved internal corner at the fold point if that's what you mean, It's bound to tear then.
Cut to a sharp corner. Then either just fold at that point, (I usually do) or do like Stormin and drill a small hole right in the corner.
Use a shim inside the fold.
I've tried annealling, but if not careful it spreads to far into the cone and spoils the springyness at the ends. It's not really necessary.
Thanks for the tips,
I was already using a shim,
I was going to try a small hole in the corner to relieve the stress at that point i noticed these tiny holes were on the zen stoves web site pattern also.
This one was because the cut into the corner was not precise had a bit of overrun.
Will take more time next time, just playing at the moment.
Its a lot eiaser to make than i thought it would be.
Need to test if it has a coating on i heard that it blackens and smells, so will sand or wire wool the next one down i think if it has.
It goes golden brown and smells.
Usually the smell goes away after a few days use.
Or sand it off straight away as suggested by Stormin. Recently did this and got no smells.
It's pretty quick to make one after a couple practice runs. And setup and print the templates.
@Mole...can you please share a file for toaks 550 ml pot...the xs caldera just doesnt fit the handles that well...cheers!
No problem Slovhike, I need your stove height though and whether you'd like a full split cone or ULC type (for use with silicone band) or both...
Here are 2 designed for a 20mm high stove. The Low cone is designed so that it will fit inside the mug - you need to set your own band height. Handle gaps need trimming/playing with to suit. Just print the pages you need - 2-3 in this case.
@Mole My stove height is 25mm screw lid balm container..i would like to fit it inside the pot. Can 2g pegs be used instead of silicone band so to adjust the height if using same cone with BGET esbit type stove? For general whats the optimal stove/pot distance for alky type stove (starlyte type) and esbit type? I think Zelph recommends 1 inch...cheers
I use 24mm so 1" is near as (25mm) Seems to be best with most alcohol stoves which aren't side jets. Esbit seems to be recommended at c1.75" (44mm) from the base of the fuel, so fortuitously it ends up nearly the same as for a 20-25mm alcohol stove. a mm or 2 either way is not too critical IME.
I can do a flissure template for a 25mm stove with 25mm gap if you would like. But the short template is already as tall as it can be to be able to fit inside the pot without stopping the lid fitting. You just need to adjust your band or 2g pegs accordingly for the correct flame gap.
Will 2g pegs be strong enough when weakened by heating?
I'm having a first go at making a cone spurred on by this thread
Big snag though, I cant get the tool to print what it says it's printing. Not sure why....
I'm trying to make a one-piece cone for a 900ml Snowpeak pot & Zelph Fancee Feast stove, using the rolled lip and handles for support (pan covered entirely by cone).
Total height should be 119mm. Shows 119mm on the text, prints at 68mm. It basically cut off the stove height. PDF attached.
Pot height 68 mm
Pot circ 445mm
Stove height 51mm
Handle 28mm wide x 28mm tall, 10mm down from bottom of rolled lip
Standard holes, no fissures.
It's likely down to me being a fraggle but I can't see where I've messed up
Any help much appreciated.
@WilliamC there are two stainless steel pegs that come with Flatcatgear stove to support pot and they are still strong after several drybakings..not sure about Ti pegs?
@Mole thanks for clearing up..did you try to drybake using 550ml pot plus UCL you made with your DiY epicurean stove...reckon it will work or simply too much heat output?..melting the cone..
From page two of this thread:
"Just a heads up that the 2g Terra Nova stakes don't work after all.
They're plenty stiff at normal temps, but this one got too hot and bent under the shared weight of a pint."
I thought I remembered it from somewher, but it took a while to track it down.
Possibly the script doesn't like burner offset= zero?(bug?) Try splitting the stove height and adding the difference to the offset - ends up the same?
slovhike - I've not tried drybaking - not interested in any form of cooking in small pots really.
I'd use a different setup if I was doing proper cooking.
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