Sleeping bag cover

Discussion in 'Sleeping Bags & Quilts' started by HillBelly, Jun 28, 2018.

  1. Enzo

    Enzo Thru Hiker

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    3f silnylon poncho on right for comparison.
    200 x 136cm
    The driducks probably more comfortable on bare skin as it as a thin fleecy inner coating, as well as being breathable. Not sure how much difference that makes with a poncho.
    DRI 240
    3f 210g
    WilliamC likes this.
  2. Blah blah blah

    Blah blah blah Trail Blazer

    I've just placed an order for the Alpkit Hunka XL (500g) - on preorder from them, expected at the beginning of next month.

    I'm exceptionally broad so super lightweight can't come into it, just replaced a Neo Air Xlite large (460g) for the Klymit insulated Static V Luxe Air XL (992g) because it is 5 inches wider, NeoAir 25 inches (if i'm correct) and the Klymit is 30 inches.
  3. Fred Wanderer

    Fred Wanderer Backpacker

  4. Clare

    Clare Thru Hiker

    SafetyThird likes this.
  5. SafetyThird

    SafetyThird Section Hiker

    Look forward to seeing the results. Could you do a bit of a show and tell as you make it please for those of us not very skilled in sewing and making things like that.
    Clare likes this.
  6. Clare

    Clare Thru Hiker

    Sure. Will do.
    SafetyThird likes this.
  7. Enzo

    Enzo Thru Hiker

    Will it sew OK, or bond?
  8. Clare

    Clare Thru Hiker

    Haven’t decided yet. Am going to test.
  9. Clare

    Clare Thru Hiker

    I made a cover out of the dust sheet material. It’s 81g, including kam snaps and elastic and toggles. It has a shaped foot box and snaps to the existing kam snaps on my quilt.

    I’ll post a “how to” step by step for @SafetyThird later.

    I think it may be overkill, a foot box cover that attaches to the quilts kam snaps may be sufficient.

    @Enzo i sewed it because that was easier around the foot box but the fabric is very thin and doesn’t pass through well. I reduced the machine’s foot pressure to 2 and used a long stitch.

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    Last edited: Oct 5, 2018
  10. Enzo

    Enzo Thru Hiker

    Lookin good :thumbsup:
    Be nice to get some hh and cu ft figures. Can you breathe through it?
    I've got some on the way too
    Clare likes this.
  11. Fred Wanderer

    Fred Wanderer Backpacker

    Like the look of that a lot. Well done, Clare
    Put an order for some yesterday.
    Designerpaint deliver for free to a local Brewers Decorators Store too :)
    Clare likes this.
  12. fluffkitten

    fluffkitten Thru Hiker

    Clare likes this.
  13. Clare

    Clare Thru Hiker

    @SafetyThird and anyone else who wants to know.

    What you need:
    • the dust sheet,
    • rotary cutter and mat or scissors
    • sewing machine
    • Kam snaps and pliers
    • double sided tape (e.g. the kind that comes in the bag with polycro sheet but any will do)
    • elastic cord and 2 cord stops.
    • Darning needle - big eye, blunt tip.
    Sewing: This fabric is very thin and doesn't move easily under the sewing machine foot. I reduced the sewing machine foot pressure from 3 (its normal setting) to 2. there should be a dial for this, depending on your machine. Set the length of the stitch to almost the longest.

    1) Measure your quilt or take dimensions from manufacturer's website and add 2cm all around for seam allowance.

    2) Draw it out on the fabric. Tip: because the shape is not rectangular, use a set square against the selvedge edge* to get a 90 degrees mark and a metal tape to draw a centre line, then measure outwards on each side from the centre line to the shoulder width and to the foot with, then join the points. Then you have your shape.
    *Selvedge edge is the manufactured edge, which will which always be straight.

    3) If your quilt has a sewn in footbox, measure the width and height and draw out a rectangle of that size, adding 2cm seam allowance. Draw a horizontal and vertical line through the rectangle that quarters it. Hand draw a curve joining the top vertical point and the right horizontal point, i.e. only one quarter of the oval needs to be drawn in at this point. Then go to (4).

    If your quilt doesn't have a sewn in footbox but a drawstring, e.g. a Revelation then do the following: Take a piece of string and cut to the length of the bottom edge of the quilt. This will ensure that the circumference of your footbox oval fits the bottom edge of the quilt cover. Arrange the string in an oval shape on the fabric and draw around it, adding 2cm to the diameter for seam allowance. Draw a rectangle that joins up the edges of the oval and draw horizontal and vertical lines that quarter it.

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    4) This is how to get a symmetrical oval shape: Cut the curve along the one quarter. Fold the rectangle in half along the vertical line and use the cut curve as template to draw the curve on the other side. Cut along that line. Fold the rectangle in half along the horiztonal line and use the cut curves as a template to mark and cut the remainder of the oval.


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    5) Now you need to join the quilt to the footbox. Decide which side of the fabric will be outwards facing. I used the shiny side because I assumed this would be the most water resistant. There must be an overlap of the vertical edges of the quilt cover as this will be your seam allowance when you sew up the footbox.

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    6) Pin the bottom horizontal edge of the quilt cover around the footbox oval with the shiny side facing inwards. When you start pinning make sure start at least 2cm from the vertical edge of the quilt cover so that you have your seam allowance ready when you need to sew the footbox seam. Pinning a large piece of fabric around a fairly small oval can be tricky. Initially insert the pins at quite wide intervals, say 2 inches, coaxing the fabric around the curve before each pin, until the full circle has been completed and you can see if you have matched it up well. If it's okay, add extra pins at narrower intervals to secure it for sewing.

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    7) Sew the quilt to the footbox, using the edge of the sewing machine foot as a guide to maintain your seam allowance all the way round. It's okay if the seam doesn't start right up hard against the vertical seam allowance flap as you will be over-sewing this later. Remove pins.

    8) Pin and sew the vertical seam of the cover as high as you need it to go to match your footbox. use the reverse stitch on your machine at the top, to secure the ending.

    9) Return to the circular seam and over sew the line where the circular seam and and the vertical seam join so that there are no gaps.

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    9) Turn it inside out, which is actually now the right way around. Nearly done now.

    (10) There are pressure points that need strengthening because this fabric is so fragile: these are each place where the Kam snaps will go and the place where the footbox seam stops and the quilt opening starts. I tried sewing a triangle of fabric there but the multiple stitch lines actually weakened the fabric and it tore. Instead, I made sticky back fabric to strengthen each of these points. In my case, I had 8 attachment points for the Kam Snaps and a triangle for the quilt opening pressure point. Cut a single piece of fabric big enough for all those pressure points and cover its entire surface in double sided tape. Then cut the taped fabric into however many 5cm squares you will need and the triangle. Remove the tape and stick the triangle to the inside of the quilt opening pressure point.


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    11) Put your quilt inside the bag and mark up along one side of the opening where the Kam Snaps need to go. Remove quilt. Stick a sticky rectangle at each of those points and then put your snaps on. THen smooth out the bag nice and flat and even and mark the matching locations for the snaps on the other side, add the sticky patches and the snaps. NB the male/female positions of the Snaps need to match up with the male/female on your quilt NOT with the other half of the quilt cover. Assuming you want to snap this to your quilt, anyway.

    12) Fold and pin top edge of quilt cover and sew a seam to make channel for elastic. Use darning needle to thread elastic through the channel and add the cord locks, burning tip of the elastic to prevent fraying.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 6, 2018
    Dave V, JKM, tom and 9 others like this.
  14. SafetyThird

    SafetyThird Section Hiker

    Clare, thank you so much for this, that'll be a winter weekend project for me and a good start to MYOG :)
  15. Clare

    Clare Thru Hiker

    Good luck and post your results.
  16. Mole

    Mole Thru Hiker

    Nice clear instructions Clare. Thanks.

    Might make something similar with some tyvek 1443r . Not quite as light but probably a little more durable.
    Clare likes this.
  17. Clare

    Clare Thru Hiker

    Tyvek would be good.

    What do you think of using that purple pertex that you bought, that I and others bought? Breathable enough?
  18. tom

    tom Thru Hiker

    @Mole I made 2 tyvek (1443R) biwis a few years ago - about 140g in mummy shape (medium size) with a drawstring hood. One is still in use by another member here. Good breathability but about 3 times the bulk of UL phd biwi and takes on more moisture due to its surface.
    Mole likes this.
  19. tom

    tom Thru Hiker

    Very neat and tidy Clare - still not had time to do mine...
    Clare likes this.
  20. Imperial Dave

    Imperial Dave Section Hiker

    that is an understatement! :p
  21. el manana

    el manana Thru Hiker

  22. fluffkitten

    fluffkitten Thru Hiker

    About £17 including shipping, not sure if that is value.
  23. SafetyThird

    SafetyThird Section Hiker

    That tyvek cover looks good value when you consider the time needed to make one and the cost of materials. Pretty light too. If I'd not ordered one of the sheets to make my own I'd probably have jumped on that.
    WilliamC and PhilHo like this.
  24. PhilHo

    PhilHo Thru Hiker

    I also think it looks good value for those of us with no sewing skills. I'd have liked it to be a bit longer though.

    I found it here for £14.66 with free shipping and they take Paypal. I've ordered one and with Paypal charge it comes to £15.28 delivered. I'll let you know what I think to it when it appears.
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2018
    WilliamC likes this.
  25. Clare

    Clare Thru Hiker

    True, by the time you've bought a Kam Snap set, a rotary cutter etc etc it gets expensive, unless you're going to make lots of stuff - which then becomes a natural progression. I've now got to make enough things to use up 300 Kam Snaps :o o: ... or I'll be inefficient.
    SafetyThird and WilliamC like this.

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