ELNA SU 62C help

gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
Hi All,

I have a ELNA su but I find it very difficult to sew trough 10mm eva50 3mm 3d with xpac + webbing. Maybe I'm just asking to much of the sewing machine.
I'm tried jeans needles, microtex and universal. I have some ball points on the way. I've used different threads form guterman.
But still no luck I get missed stitches a Lot.

I was just wondering if maybe some has an elna su too or have used one and maybe has some tips :)

I'm considering a "new" machine otherwise. A singer 201 if I can get one. (in the Netherlands they cost between 300-400€ :() saw on ebay some in the uk but don't know if they ship it to me. Or maybe an industrial machine.

Any tips are greatly appreciated!
 
Dave V

Dave V

Moderator
Staff member
Are you able to hand crank the machine? It may take longer but will give you a little more chance of punching through.

I've been using a Singer 357 of late but have been told the 328 is just as strong. The 201 and 99 I have here also go through the straps, but do need the occasional twitst of the balance wheel.

I personally use a 100/16 ballpoint for straps.
 
gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
Sometimes it's just stuck. And then even by hand it doesn't go trough.

I still have to try the 100/16 ball points you advised. They are on the way. Also from the uk... Man sewing in Holland seems to be more expensive. For the price of shipping from a NL supplier I now have a pocket including shipping from the uk (eBay) :)
 
Teepee

Teepee

Thru Hiker
gamemaster84 said:
Hi All,

I have a ELNA su but I find it very difficult to sew trough 10mm eva50 3mm 3d with xpac + webbing. Maybe I'm just asking to much of the sewing machine.
I'm tried jeans needles, microtex and universal. I have some ball points on the way. I've used different threads form guterman.
But still no luck I get missed stitches a Lot.

I was just wondering if maybe some has an elna su too or have used one and maybe has some tips :)

I'm considering a "new" machine otherwise. A singer 201 if I can get one. (in the Netherlands they cost between 300-400€ :() saw on ebay some in the uk but don't know if they ship it to me. Or maybe an industrial machine.

Any tips are greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...

I have one. You are asking a bit too much of it and you will eventually cause some damage. That thickness is just too much. If you try to use ballpoints to sew through X-pac and webbing, you'll soon wreck it.

For our fine fibres techinical fabrics, we most often need sharp needles like Microtex or it offers extra resistance to the needle penetrating and snaps fibres instead of pushing them apart. Ballpoint are for loose knitted and elastics where you want to push the fibres a long way to one side. Some open weave webbing(PP) is OK with Universals or ballpoints, but tight woven quality webbing wants a sharp needle.

I sew through 10mm foam with X-pac and sometimes a few layers of spacer mesh and webbing on an industrial 16mm lift machine. Anything other than a fingernail digging supersharp 100/16 will cause snapped threads and hassles.
 
gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
Hi Teepee,

Thanks! May I ask what machine you're using? I was browsing sewtex.de they have a lot of industrial machines and sewingmachinery.co.uk/ for some ideas ;)
 
Teepee

Teepee

Thru Hiker
Japanese Brother DB2 that I put a digital motor on. It'll just cope with pack straps. Enough power to put the needle through the metal plate but it's not ideal for pure pack making. It copes though and will do thin shelter fabrics as well as multiple layers of X-pac etc.
 
Dave V

Dave V

Moderator
Staff member
I've never had any issues using the 100/16 on straps, I do change needles after every pack but I've never had any pulls, snapped thread or other issues.
 
Enzo

Enzo

Thru Hiker
My 201 manages 3mm spacer, 9mm CCF dxg and some webbing on top ok, bit of a squeeze but sews fine.
 
Enzo

Enzo

Thru Hiker
Looks a good deal with the table etc but a lot of money. I'm sure you could buy a 201 and get it shipped from the UK for £150? Or for a bit more a 357 or 328 Dave recommend.
 
Enzo

Enzo

Thru Hiker
I bought a treadle Pfaff 130 and fitted a cheap Chinese motor to it. Had to make a bracket but it's easy enough. I think your better looking for a motored one, sure you'd get one with a motor for similar money.
 
gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
I'm browsing trough the classifieds here in hope someone is selling her grandmother machine and not knowing what type it is :)

I think this is a 201.the discription says that it was a treadle but is fitted with a mother know.
Maybe this one?
I also saw a 20U a 306
Is this a 357?

Or any other recommendations are welcome Pfaff Bernina etc...
 
Dave V

Dave V

Moderator
Staff member
gamemaster84 said:
I'm browsing trough the classifieds here in hope someone is selling her grandmother machine and not knowing what type it is :)

I think this is a 201.the discription says that it was a treadle but is fitted with a mother know.
Maybe this one?
I also saw a 20U a 306
Is this a 357?

Or any other recommendations are welcome Pfaff Bernina etc...
Click to expand...
The second looks like a 328 to me
 
Teepee

Teepee

Thru Hiker
gamemaster84 said:
I'm browsing trough the classifieds here in hope someone is selling her grandmother machine and not knowing what type it is :)

I think this is a 201.the discription says that it was a treadle but is fitted with a mother know.
Maybe this one?
I also saw a 20U a 306
Is this a 357?

Or any other recommendations are welcome Pfaff Bernina etc...
Click to expand...

Your biggest issue for thick straps is presser foot lift height. This rules out a lot of the machines. Bernina and Pfaff do great machines but they don't get much under the foot. Bernina also very expensive for parts.
The 357 is a good bet as it'll do a faux bar-tack....although you don't actually need to bar tack any of a pack usually, it is handy.
The Husqvarna's will lift quite high, maybe worth a look.
I've heard some good things about Toyota super jeans for a reasonable domestic but don't really know.

FWIW, I've the use of a new domestic top of the line Bernina currently with all the auto functions like needle threader/auto cut/lock/walking foot. It a nice bit of kit but I wouldn't make a pack on it and it feels like a toy compared to the industrial. My old Singer 201's and 99's don't ever get used now either.
 
Enzo

Enzo

Thru Hiker
I just missed out on a 317 that went for £35, still got my eye out for a 306/328/357.
 
Enzo

Enzo

Thru Hiker
Worth noting they are straight stitch only, so no sewing stretch pockets/bar tacking.
 
Dave V

Dave V

Moderator
Staff member
If you can physically see the machine a 201 should be smooth and quiet, hand crank it and test for any resistance, knocks etc, remembering to lift the presser foot so the dogs don't scratch or score the foot. The foot can obviously be replaced easy enough or filed down if it's scored.

I would also, if you can check all the mechanism, look underneath and remove the plates. If you remove the faceplate, have a look at the upper tension release, on some of the older or more used machines this can be worn or become stuck and may not be releasing the tension discs when the presser foot is raised. You should be able to see a curved L shaped arm that's actioned by lifting and lowering the presser foot on the right side when you remove the faceplate. There is a small spring attached to it and just beyond the spring an arm that pushes against a small pin to release the pressure. If this is stuck/sticky or worn, you will likely run in to tension issues. Also check the tension discs with the foot down.

Also check the presser foot spring, these can be easily replaced too but worth checking. As you lower the foot you can test the springs resistance by manually lifting the presser foot with the spring adjuster in various positions.

Adding a motor is a pretty simple task, if the machine is hand crank you will need a new balance wheel and the motor.

If you buy the machine, its also worth giving everything a really good clean and oil. I have found that some machines have had grease applied that either adds resistance or just gunks everything up over time.
 
Enzo

Enzo

Thru Hiker
Only reason I looked for a second (and third....) Machine was for zig zag, suspect I'll stick to the 201 for most of my sewing. Tempting to look at industrial machine on a proper table like Teepee, must be good if he's abandoned his 201. But it's finding space, fine if your on it every day, but for occasionally use it's hard to justify for me.
 
H

Hd8ekownio24ugh5

Thru Hiker
Dave V said:
If you can physically see the machine a 201 should be smooth and quiet, hand crank it and test for any resistance, knocks etc, remembering to lift the presser foot so the dogs don't scratch or score the foot. The foot can obviously be replaced easy enough or filed down if it's scored.

I would also, if you can check all the mechanism, look underneath and remove the plates. If you remove the faceplate, have a look at the upper tension release, on some of the older or more used machines this can be worn or become stuck and may not be releasing the tension discs when the presser foot is raised. You should be able to see a curved L shaped arm that's actioned by lifting and lowering the presser foot on the right side when you remove the faceplate. There is a small spring attached to it and just beyond the spring an arm that pushes against a small pin to release the pressure. If this is stuck/sticky or worn, you will likely run in to tension issues. Also check the tension discs with the foot down.

Also check the presser foot spring, these can be easily replaced too but worth checking. As you lower the foot you can test the springs resistance by manually lifting the presser foot with the spring adjuster in various positions.

Adding a motor is a pretty simple task, if the machine is hand crank you will need a new balance wheel and the motor.

If you buy the machine, its also worth giving everything a really good clean and oil. I have found that some machines have had grease applied that either adds resistance or just gunks everything up over time.
Click to expand...
Thanks very much.
 
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