Tent Modification Complete

Dave V

Moderator
Staff member
A month or so ago I was contacted and asked if I would take a look at two shelters to see if I would be able to modify them and where required carry out minor repairs. The shelters were from the same manufacturer and other than the main material used, are pretty much the same.

When the shelters arrived, I pitched them and made several observations, took some pictures and contacted the owner with some suggestions and to seek permission to continue. The mods and repairs were agreed, and work started.

I started on the DCF model first and noted that all the guy points were reinforced with Cordura, 500D I believe. In all of the ground level guy points there were visible stretch / tear marks where the Cordura patches had been sewn to the fly. I put this down to the difference in tensile strength and stretch between the DCF and Cordura.

As I continued, removing each guy out I started to find more and more stretch / large holes in the DCF and again contacted the owner to keep them updated. As you can see from the pictures, some of the damage was pretty extensive. The owner advised that the DCF model had only been used on a couple of occasions and it had only been winds up to around 30mph +/- 5mph.

I found that the seam stitches had not been finished how I would expect them to be, there was no lockstitch and the ends were simply loose. This did not overly concern me as they would be stuck in place later.

IMG_20200617_125308.jpg


The shelter had originally been factory sealed internally using a type of PU tape. The has flaked and or peeled off in most areas leaving a sticky, flaky mess which I cleaned off, preparing each guy point. In order to add some seam strength and waterproof the seams, the owner had sealed the seamed externally using DCF tape.

IMG_20200605_151739.jpg


IMG_20200617_125338.jpg


IMG_20200617_125955_1.jpg



Each of the Cordura triangles were replaced with 1oz bonded DCF patches, 1.65x the size of the original to cover and seal the holes and tears in the DCF. Originally, there was a patch on the front and back side of the panel, I did the same so that the holes were covered each side and the strength of the areas was increased.

IMG_20200617_123257.jpg

(The lighter triangle underneath is a bit of card so I could see what I was doing easier)

IMG_20200618_090458.jpg


In places, were the bartack holding the lineloc had pulled the DCF so much, I added a second bonded patch either side. This was in addition and underneath the 1oz triangular patch and in an effort to strengthen the area and stop the hole increasing in size.

IMG_20200617_133335.jpg


IMG_20200617_140834.jpg


The zip was also pulling along nearly the entire length, I taped this from top to bottom on both sides adding strength and in a hope to stop the zip pulling more.

IMG_20200618_063943.jpg


IMG_20200618_063335.jpg



The DCF where the door guy outs had been originally attached were both badly damaged. Additional DCF patched were applied here. As with other shelters I own and have worked on, I added a Duraflex buckle at the bottom of the zip to try and reduce pulling / pressure on the zip and.

IMG_20200618_124143.jpg



Moving on to the Silnylon version of the shelter. As above, I found that all ground level tie outs had pulls and tears in the silnylon where the Cordura had pulled. I again put this down to the difference in material strengths and stretch properties.

I removed all the Cordura triangles and replaced them with heat cut 40D silnylon triangles.

IMG_20200702_022721.jpg


In a couple of places, where the lineloc had been bartacked in place, the Silnylon was badly damaged with a large hole. I built up the area with a few layers of seam grip and then added a small silnylon patch followed by a slightly larger one both seam gripped in place before adding the triangle. This worked very well and I was happy with the strength of the repair.

IMG_20200702_182904.jpg


IMG_20200702_065616.jpg


The seams on the Silnylon version were also not finished as I would expect, the thread simply left loose and on two of the seam they had pulled out where the shelter had stretched in use. As best I could, these two seams were re-stitched and the loose thread glued in place with seam grip as there was not enough left to create a lockstitch.

There are two doors on the Silnylon version. The original guy outs were sewn in to the seam of the silnylon with a Cordura triangle either side. The fabric in these areas was badly pulled as this is a high stress area with the zip closure and tension of the shelter pulling. I replaced the Cordura with silnylon triangles and then secured the guy outs through the edge of the zip, through the fly and both triangles. This had added a lot of strength to this area. I did not add buckles to either door on the silnylon version as there was only really the fly to attach them too and I did not want them adding further stress to an area that was already damaged/repaired.

IMG_20200702_195151.jpg


IMG_20200702_195223.jpg


Since completing the work on the above shelters, I have been contacted by someone with a Pre Tents Soloist that has a similar issue with one of the corner guy points. The main fly fabric has pulled. Potentially the same issue with the reenforcement having different strength/stretch properties to the main fabric. As this is a brand new, used twice shelter, they are sending it back for a replacement.
 

Dave V

Moderator
Staff member
I must say I would have expected better quality from Seek Outside, going by their reputation.
I don't know much about them tbh. I know the owner has fed things back and I understand they have or are making changes to construction.

I have literally just got off the phone with the person who's Pre Tents has the same issue. Its going back for a refund not replacement. The issue they described is exactly the same. From what I can see its Dyneema Grid used to reenforce the guy outs. I think a number of the shelters available on Ali E use this same method too now..
 

FOX160

Thru Hiker
A month or so ago I was contacted and asked if I would take a look at two shelters to see if I would be able to modify them and where required carry out minor repairs. The shelters were from the same manufacturer and other than the main material used, are pretty much the same.

When the shelters arrived, I pitched them and made several observations, took some pictures and contacted the owner with some suggestions and to seek permission to continue. The mods and repairs were agreed, and work started.

I started on the DCF model first and noted that all the guy points were reinforced with Cordura, 500D I believe. In all of the ground level guy points there were visible stretch / tear marks where the Cordura patches had been sewn to the fly. I put this down to the difference in tensile strength and stretch between the DCF and Cordura.

As I continued, removing each guy out I started to find more and more stretch / large holes in the DCF and again contacted the owner to keep them updated. As you can see from the pictures, some of the damage was pretty extensive. The owner advised that the DCF model had only been used on a couple of occasions and it had only been winds up to around 30mph +/- 5mph.

I found that the seam stitches had not been finished how I would expect them to be, there was no lockstitch and the ends were simply loose. This did not overly concern me as they would be stuck in place later.

IMG_20200617_125308.jpg


The shelter had originally been factory sealed internally using a type of PU tape. The has flaked and or peeled off in most areas leaving a sticky, flaky mess which I cleaned off, preparing each guy point. In order to add some seam strength and waterproof the seams, the owner had sealed the seamed externally using DCF tape.

IMG_20200605_151739.jpg


IMG_20200617_125338.jpg


IMG_20200617_125955_1.jpg



Each of the Cordura triangles were replaced with 1oz bonded DCF patches, 1.65x the size of the original to cover and seal the holes and tears in the DCF. Originally, there was a patch on the front and back side of the panel, I did the same so that the holes were covered each side and the strength of the areas was increased.

IMG_20200617_123257.jpg

(The lighter triangle underneath is a bit of card so I could see what I was doing easier)

IMG_20200618_090458.jpg


In places, were the bartack holding the lineloc had pulled the DCF so much, I added a second bonded patch either side. This was in addition and underneath the 1oz triangular patch and in an effort to strengthen the area and stop the hole increasing in size.

IMG_20200617_133335.jpg


IMG_20200617_140834.jpg


The zip was also pulling along nearly the entire length, I taped this from top to bottom on both sides adding strength and in a hope to stop the zip pulling more.

IMG_20200618_063943.jpg


IMG_20200618_063335.jpg



The DCF where the door guy outs had been originally attached were both badly damaged. Additional DCF patched were applied here. As with other shelters I own and have worked on, I added a Duraflex buckle at the bottom of the zip to try and reduce pulling / pressure on the zip and.

IMG_20200618_124143.jpg



Moving on to the Silnylon version of the shelter. As above, I found that all ground level tie outs had pulls and tears in the silnylon where the Cordura had pulled. I again put this down to the difference in material strengths and stretch properties.

I removed all the Cordura triangles and replaced them with heat cut 40D silnylon triangles.

IMG_20200702_022721.jpg


In a couple of places, where the lineloc had been bartacked in place, the Silnylon was badly damaged with a large hole. I built up the area with a few layers of seam grip and then added a small silnylon patch followed by a slightly larger one both seam gripped in place before adding the triangle. This worked very well and I was happy with the strength of the repair.

IMG_20200702_182904.jpg


IMG_20200702_065616.jpg


The seams on the Silnylon version were also not finished as I would expect, the thread simply left loose and on two of the seam they had pulled out where the shelter had stretched in use. As best I could, these two seams were re-stitched and the loose thread glued in place with seam grip as there was not enough left to create a lockstitch.

There are two doors on the Silnylon version. The original guy outs were sewn in to the seam of the silnylon with a Cordura triangle either side. The fabric in these areas was badly pulled as this is a high stress area with the zip closure and tension of the shelter pulling. I replaced the Cordura with silnylon triangles and then secured the guy outs through the edge of the zip, through the fly and both triangles. This had added a lot of strength to this area. I did not add buckles to either door on the silnylon version as there was only really the fly to attach them too and I did not want them adding further stress to an area that was already damaged/repaired.

IMG_20200702_195151.jpg


IMG_20200702_195223.jpg


Since completing the work on the above shelters, I have been contacted by someone with a Pre Tents Soloist that has a similar issue with one of the corner guy points. The main fly fabric has pulled. Potentially the same issue with the reenforcement having different strength/stretch properties to the main fabric. As this is a brand new, used twice shelter, they are sending it back for a replacement.
Really nice work @Dave V
 

EM-Chiseller

Thru Hiker
That looks and sounds like some great thought and effort has gone into your repairs Dave ❤️ I was amazed when I clocked the logo. I've had two SeekOutside sil shelters and couldn't fault the models I had. Both stood us very well in the times we used them. It's quite scary to think of the money involved in the initial outlay for those shelters and then to find the quality is sub par.
I know they have a loyal following, especially by big game hunters who rely on them in some remote and barren territory.
Great work Goatul Gear ✔️❤️
 

Dave V

Moderator
Staff member
That looks and sounds like some great thought and effort has gone into your repairs Dave ❤️ I was amazed when I clocked the logo. I've had two SeekOutside sil shelters and couldn't fault the models I had. Both stood us very well in the times we used them. It's quite scary to think of the money involved in the initial outlay for those shelters and then to find the quality is sub par.
I know they have a loyal following, especially by big game hunters who rely on them in some remote and barren territory.
Great work Goatul Gear ✔️❤️

It's a difficult one. They have obviously been trading and making quality gear for many years and I have only been making/repairing gear for a relatively short time. I know very little about Seek, only what I have seen online and seen in the two shelters I worked on. The overall build quality was very high and the materials used are obviously top quality. That said, for the seams not to be finished properly on both shelters, I was a little shocked.

The use of the Cordura is the main thing I would question. I know other tent manufactures have been and are starting to use stronger materials for the reenforcement areas but I personally think this will result in the same issue. You cannot have one fabric that's has a good amount of stretch and another that's relatively non stretchy in a high stress area like a guy out point and expect it to work. The same goes for using a zero stretch material such as DCF and adding a sewn reenforcement that has an element of stretch.

IMO, and granted I do not make shelters but I have used, seen and repaired enough of them to know what works and what gives issues. Some shelters have reenforcement for the hell of it, if a guy out is attached to the seam, the vast majority of the stress is running up the seam. If a reenforcement is needed or used, materials with the same properties, bias and strength as the main fly should be used.
 

WilliamC

Thru Hiker
I remember that a decade or so ago, in the early days of cuben/DCF tents, somebody (I think it was Zpacks) briefly used silnylon as reinforcement on their tents but soon stopped due to the non-stretch/stretch problems that you describe.
 

Munro277

Thru Hiker
Excellent work and thinking Dave,the work you did for me was Top draw stuff too,shame a "Big name " firm are a bit behind on quality
 

Enzo

Thru Hiker
Spot on Dave.
Odd mistake to make given that failure mode was discovered early on.
Dxg I think is better as it has less stretch, but my preference is to go with DCF on DCF and use a larger, circular reinforcement as the failures seem to occur at the edges of the reinforcement as that's where the load is passed onto the weaker main fabric, the more of that fabric to deal with the load the better as far as I can see.
 

ledburner

Trail Blazer
Hi, thanks for sharing to knowledge & skill.
It is the small detail that make top end tents so expensive and what separates the wheat from the chaff.
The extra time for quality control, choosing the most suitable material, details of construction techniques.
Doing it all in house, I suspect this work was contracted out, given their past reputation. I read alot that sewing weakens DCF, and bonding tapes is used so much. Most of the construction techniques have been carried over from Sail construction technology..
Interesting....
:sneaky:
 

Benzil

Day Walker
That looks great! I am looking to add a guy out point son the large panel of my silnylon tent. I was thinking to stitch 2 squares of Cordura 1 one the inside and the other on the outside with some sort of cord for attaching guy rope then seamseal the stitching.
Do you think that could work?
 

Dave V

Moderator
Staff member
I would personally not use Cordura. Silnylon and Cordura have very very different properties and from what I have seen on these Seek shelters and two early Pre Tent shelters, using a low/no stretch fabric with a fabric with a high stretch properties is just asking for trouble/requires constant monitoring.

I would use Silnylon and attach the line via shock cord to reduce the stress on the stitching.

People like Locus Gear and now Pre Tents that use a DXG derivative have worked out through trial and error the best way to attach these reinforcements but they are still not perfect IMO. Pre Tents now roll the DXG into the seam and use a zig zag stitch which helps a lot but the mid panel tieouts still pull and will require a lot of seam sealer and regular reseals / monitoring.
 

Alf Outdoors

F.K.A tarptent
Hi, thanks for sharing to knowledge & skill.
It is the small detail that make top end tents so expensive and what separates the wheat from the chaff.
The extra time for quality control, choosing the most suitable material, details of construction techniques.
Doing it all in house, I suspect this work was contracted out, given their past reputation. I read alot that sewing weakens DCF, and bonding tapes is used so much. Most of the construction techniques have been carried over from Sail construction technology..
Interesting....
:sneaky:
Yep, my J.H. Mountain House 1.5P in real tree camo DCF is almost entirely bonded together, not stitched. The only stitching is where the guy out, tie outs and their reinforcement backings are.
It makes for a stronger tent, and with such small amounts of seam sealing tape needed it end's up lighter than stitched equivalents.
For example, it's lighter than Zpacks Altplex in real tree camo DCF, but it offers about twice the internal volume.
 

WilliamC

Thru Hiker
Yep, my J.H. Mountain House 1.5P in real tree camo DCF is almost entirely bonded together, not stitched. The only stitching is where the guy out, tie outs and their reinforcement backings are.
It makes for a stronger tent, and with such small amounts of seam sealing tape needed it end's up lighter than stitched equivalents.
For example, it's lighter than Zpacks Altplex in real tree camo DCF, but it offers about twice the internal volume.
Does your Mountain House have the built in inner that the Altaplex has? I know that some do, but I don't know if they all do.
Sewing used to be lighter than bonding (transfer tape is surprisingly heavy) but I'm remembering that from the days when some companies (e.g. Zpacks) used to sew only, without overtaping with single-sided tape. I don't know how overtaped sewn seams compare to purely bonded for weight but I can't see it making enough difference to base a purchase decision on.
See Colin Ibbotson for his views on the advantages of sewing then taping over purely bonded.
 
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Alf Outdoors

F.K.A tarptent
Does your Mountain House have the built in inner that the Altaplex has?
No, but a real tree camo DCF Altaplex weighs 502g. My custom J.H. M.H. in real tree camo DCF weighs 445g, including the Exitex 1.5m x 3m Polycro ground sheet, and the DCF storage bag adds 10g. And if I want the very basics of flying insect protection I can throw on my Sea To Summit Nano head net, which would bring it up to 466g...36g lighter than the Altaplex.


I know that some do, but I don't know if they all do.
Sewing used to be lighter than bonding (transfer tape is surprisingly heavy) but I'm remembering that from the days when some companies (e.g. Zpacks) used to sew only, without overtaping with single-sided tape. I don't know how overtaped sewn seams compare to purely bonded for weight but I can't see it making enough difference to base a purchase decision on.
See Colin Ibbotson for his views on the advantages of sewing then taping over purely bonded.
I used to build Mclaren sports cars on the assembly line at their plant in Woking, and I saw first hand the benefits of bonded construction...Much of Mclarens cars achieve the amazingly high strength to weight ratio of their body shell and chassis, by effectively gluing the majority of their cars together, rather than bolting or riveting them together.
The Aluminium front and rear chassis rails, and all the fixed body panels, are all bonded directly onto into the immensely strong Carbon Fibre centre tub.
The reasoning is, a bolt or rivet always has a gap between it and the next one, and the next one and so on...But one part is not actually physically attached to another part in these gaps, leaving a weaker joint or fixing.
It is analogous to the hull plates on the Titanic being riveted, rather than welded...The Titanic would almost certainly have survived the collision with the iceberg and reached port safely, if it's hull plates had been welded, as it's hull would have been much stronger.
With a bonded (or welded) joint there are no gaps at all between parts so maximum joint strength between parts is achieved.
And it is the same with bonded tents.
 
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