Backpack questions

Dave V

Dave V

Moderator
Staff member
Something else that's just come to mind. If your using DX for your straps and stitching inside out to slide the foam inside as you turn the right way... Have the 3D mesh facing you as you slide the foam and pinch the foam so the two edges are facing upwards and the curve is facing the DX fabric. I find this produces a less wrinkly strap face and also a more even finish with the DX just overlapping the top of the foam and the mesh wrapping around nicely.

I also use stone bulldog clips at the top of the straps once the foam is in place to stop if sliding upwards and out until I have either stitched through the strap or adding the webbing to hold everything in place.
 
gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
Good one!
I need to experiment with the thickness of the foam and mesh. Now I had a total thickness of about 15mm and my elna su didn't sew it. I tried jeans needles and microtex but no luck. So I prepared the strap on the fabric first and then sewn the mesh and stuffed it. But now the foam can slip.
 
Dave V

Dave V

Moderator
Staff member
I generally use EVA 50 foam 9mm, 3.5mm 3d mesh and the webbing thickness depends on the pack but max of 1.7mm. I think the DX is 0.3 mm.

The Singer 357K I currently use for straps goes through without an issue using a 100/16 ballpoint. I only recently picked this machine up for its zigzag so I could 'bartack' the straps. Before that my packs were all made with straight stitch Singer, 66, 99 and 201's and I used a 90 or 100 ballpoint on those too.

With the 357, as long as I turn the hand wheel to the point just before the needle lowers, the feed dogs are below the plate and I can slide the straps under easy enough.

Edit: sorry if teaching to such eggs here. Make sure the presser foot is lowered. I made a right hash of my first straps way back, forgetting to lower it as the strap felt wedged in place. I spent the better part of an hour detaching the strap and removing the bird's-nest of thread from the machine as the tension clutch was not engaged ....doh
 
gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
I'll try that too thanks. I'd love a more industrial machine. Needle feed would be perfect for the more delicate slippery materials... Maybe once in the future :angelic:
 
gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
Dave V said:
I generally use EVA 50 foam 9mm, 3.5mm 3d mesh and the webbing thickness depends on the pack but max of 1.7mm. I think the DX is 0.3 mm.

The Singer 357K I currently use for straps goes through without an issue using a 100/16 ballpoint. I only recently picked this machine up for its zigzag so I could 'bartack' the straps. Before that my packs were all made with straight stitch Singer, 66, 99 and 201's and I used a 90 or 100 ballpoint on those too.

With the 357, as long as I turn the hand wheel to the point just before the needle lowers, the feed dogs are below the plate and I can slide the straps under easy enough.

Edit: sorry if teaching to such eggs here. Make sure the presser foot is lowered. I made a right hash of my first straps way back, forgetting to lower it as the strap felt wedged in place. I spent the better part of an hour detaching the strap and removing the bird's-nest of thread from the machine as the tension clutch was not engaged ....doh
Click to expand...
Haha I did that several times too :o o:

Did you mean these needles:
https://www.schmetzneedles.com/tag/ball-point-needles/
They label them jersey needles.
 
gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
BTW what thread do you prefer? I used mara 50 on my previous build. Adxpert recommended tera 60 but said it was more difficult to work with.
 
Dave V

Dave V

Moderator
Staff member
gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
Wauw that's a lot!
I have half a spool of mara left haha
I live in the Netherlands, I'll try to find some locally or buy from adxpert
Thanks!
 
Dave V

Dave V

Moderator
Staff member
gamemaster84 said:
Wauw that's a lot!
I have half a spool of mara left haha
I live in the Netherlands, I'll try to find some locally or buy from adxpert
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Kajo at AdventureXpert is superb. They stock some great fabrics and plastics, all top quality :)
 
gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
Do you have "favorite" webbing and buckles? I had some from extex and they slip a little.

I'm getting the feeling that I'm having an online backpack masterclass ;)
 
Dave V

Dave V

Moderator
Staff member
YKK, Duraflex and Woojin plastics are my preference. Duraflex are proving hard to come by this side of the Atlantic though.
 
Dave V

Dave V

Moderator
Staff member
gamemaster84 said:
Adxpert had some ykk stuff. I was planning on using this https://www.adventurexpert.com/product/side-release-buckle-ultralight/
Not sure about tension locks
I think these https://www.adventurexpert.com/product/tension-lock-single-bar/

With https://www.adventurexpert.com/product/20mm-polyester-webbing/
As webbing
Good idea?
Click to expand...


I have used the webbing and buckles, they are pretty nice. I have not seen or used the tension locks before. Maybe someone else has tried them, I know a few people on here buy from AdventureXpert :)
 
gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
I've ordered my fabrics. I ordered enough to make 2 dyneema packs and 1 70D ripstop pu coated prototype. I'm thinking I might attach the straps with slik clips or something to check the fit. But I'm not sure. It would mean that on the dyneema pack it'll be the first time that I sew straps on too the pack...
 
gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
Cardboard templates made :) Now the waiting for fabric starts......

cYIkeu.jpg
 
gamemaster84

gamemaster84

Ultralighter
Does anyone has a fast method to insert the foam inside the straps? I'm trying to get it done for a while now but I can't get it right..
 
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