MYOG - cuben shelter

Discussion in 'DIY & MYOG' started by cathyjc, Feb 16, 2015.

  1. cathyjc

    cathyjc Thru Hiker

    When I've got the 'T' zip inner set up properly (-I only did a quick put-up when it arrived to check no damage etc.), then I'll see how best to alter. A large tin of pins to the fore :). How high I pitch the fly will make a difference too.

    I have made a fair supply of my own mid panel loops on cuben patches :) They peel off if you need to move them**. I already have fine collection attatched to the fly all indifferent places for the different inners I've used in it :wideyed::whistling:.

    Thanks for the suggestions :)

    PS ** - not if they have been in place for any length of time (circa 2020)
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2020
  2. cathyjc

    cathyjc Thru Hiker

    Finally, got an inner I'm happy with :thumbsup: :).

    Much better corners and sides dont 'droop'. Added an extra loop/bar on back panel after taking in a large 'tuck' near the top. Not particularly 'pretty' looking but it gave the best results.

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  3. el manana

    el manana Thru Hiker

    Good job Cathy, did the tuck have to be taken out both sides as well as the back panel. Never thought of doing it that way.
  4. cathyjc

    cathyjc Thru Hiker

    @el manana The tuck is only stitched across the back panel. The fabric on the side panels just hangs in folds……It's really not possible to do anything with the excess fabric on the side panels. I stitched by hand to make it easy to unpick if I change my mind. Lots of pinning went on before the decision to 'tuck' etc. :D
    Mole likes this.
  5. RE8ELD0G

    RE8ELD0G Backpacker

    Would love to know how you made the vents and did the zip rain protection.
  6. cathyjc

    cathyjc Thru Hiker

    I've since decided that the zip rain flap was a waste of effort (a PITA even) - if doing another then I'd use a water resist zip.
    Any water getting in the zip is likely to run/soak downwards rather than drip into the porch - so not an issue.

    Vents - hmmm …. sort of worked it out as I went along. I wish I'd made them bigger - whatever you estimate add a bit more.
    I put midge mesh inside the opening - not everbody would want that ?? I stitched the midge netting into the place vacated by the vent space and the taped over the stiching. Then I made a "cone/fan" shape - sides longer than the sides of the mesh (makes overlap) and curved edge long enough to give a gap. Make a paper pattern which fits OK. Stitch vent cover on top of mesh - up the sides. Now you can join the panel to the adjacent one like any other panel.

    NB. I found joining the points at the top difficult - I kind of botched it - lots adhesive tape and a cover over all the joins. You may not as your design is different.
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2020
    RE8ELD0G likes this.
  7. RE8ELD0G

    RE8ELD0G Backpacker

    Brilliant thanks.
    I already got waterproof ykk zip for front and rear doors.
    Just wanted to add the overlap to the rear door as that's the one that will be facing into the wind and rain, so the extra protection is really a must for me.
    cathyjc likes this.
  8. cathyjc

    cathyjc Thru Hiker

    UPDATE

    Sat looking up into the top of the Howff recently I noticed pin pricks of day light, some bigger than others - some running in lines across an area - URGH :eek:.

    At home further inspection shows a lot of them (~hundreds). The holes are were the Mylar coating has "pulled back" leaving just the Dyneema threads in place.
    They are all in areas of "stress" and in the main fabric (DCF 18g or 0.51oz) and adjacent to a fitting (zip/cone/tie outs), which is in much burlier fabric (1 or 1.5 oz DCF).
    I assess that the lighter weight fabric gets 'pulled about' a lot whilst the heavyweight bits mostly 'stay put'. This friction is just too much for the Mylar to sustain.

    At a very approximate guess I'd say I've had about 50 nights in it. But I've also unpacked dried it out and repacked after each trip plus had it up in the garden several times for amendments. Probably 80 to 100 times of packing and unpacking ????

    Conclusion - Don't make construction points were a very lightweight DCF is adjacent to an inflexible heavyweight area - either reduce how 'burly' fittings are - or arrange construction so you grade the attachment area using stepped grades of DCF.

    I've applied lots of wee patches around the zip and cone - but not bothered around the tie outs - where leaks won't be an issue.

    Seems I need to plan making another :cigar:. It's definitely my fav. solo shelter :angelic:.
    26g/0.8oz DCF next time :thumbsup:.
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2020
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  9. Lempo

    Lempo Thru Hiker

    This is not the shape you're after, but might be of interest otherwise...

  10. cathyjc

    cathyjc Thru Hiker

    Not watched (time constraints) - but you are right - I camp in wet and windy Scotland - I want a double wall shelter.
    Also I love what I've got so I won't be making too many changes
    Lempo likes this.
  11. WilliamC

    WilliamC Thru Hiker

    Do you mean that the mylar has delaminated? It's my impression (and it's only an impression, based on delamination of stuff sacks and dry bags) that delamination has become less of an issue since DSM took over Cubic Tech.
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2020
  12. Shewie

    Shewie Administrator Staff Member

    Are they stretched holes in stitch lines Cathy or is it away from any joins?
  13. cathyjc

    cathyjc Thru Hiker

    Nowhere near any stitching.
  14. cathyjc

    cathyjc Thru Hiker

    I don't think it's 'delamination' ?? :unsure:. What I can see is dyneema threads intact and spaces between where the mylar is missing.
    Whether the mylar has migrated to just around the dyneema threads or is 'gone' I cannot determine.
    - a microscope might help - I'll see if my son has left 'mine' in his bedroom or taken it up to Uni. .......

    I bought mine in 2015. When was the take over ?
  15. Shewie

    Shewie Administrator Staff Member

    Interesting, did the Howff get many rough nights?

    I'll be keeping an eye on my Protrail now
  16. cathyjc

    cathyjc Thru Hiker

    Only 2 very rough nights - one I bailed to the car as I couldn't sleep in the racket and the other when I just 'held on' and crossed my fingers.
    Other nights I've usually found some shelter from the wind and had only moderate exposure.
    I'm a fair weather camper :whistling::angelic:

    PS. Wind exposure isn't the whole story - I think handling/packing/repacking/tension etc. have as much to do with it in the long run.
    Shewie and WilliamC like this.
  17. WilliamC

    WilliamC Thru Hiker

    I think you're right about packing etc. Henry Shires has commented on how quickly DCF deteriorates when is stuffed into a sack.
    After drying out, I fold our tents in the same way as when packing them in their stuff sack, roll the loosely and store them in a quilt cover large enough to take them without any pressure on them. When packing for a trip, they just need to be unrolled and rolled more tightly for putting into the stuff sack. This way, they get minimal stressing while not in use. And I always use an oversized silnylon stuff sack to minimise abrasion.
    I think that for anyone who usually does 1 or 2 night trips, their DCF tents can get more damage from what happens to them at home than when out on the hill.
    FOX160, Enzo, Shewie and 2 others like this.
  18. cathyjc

    cathyjc Thru Hiker

    I try to roll mine as much as is feasible.
    After drying I store in it's stuff sack - so it's ready to go and there is no further extra handling/unrolling/re-rolling. I don't think storing in the stuff sack should cause any harm as long as it's not then squashed.
    WilliamC likes this.
  19. cathyjc

    cathyjc Thru Hiker

    Another URGH ....

    I just ordered 7 meters 26g DCF from Extremtextil :wideyed:. Committed now :bag:.

    Extrem haven't had any DCF for months - they listed a load just today :thumbsup:
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  20. Enzo

    Enzo Thru Hiker

    I'm after some 1.5oz, no :cigar: anywhere, though as you say ex Tex have some DCF in, 170g hybrid in now, only white though.
    How exciting though 7m of 0.8:), I too have 7m waiting for some cat cut experiments of the test mule.

    A great design you got there:thumbsup:
    cathyjc likes this.
  21. cathyjc

    cathyjc Thru Hiker

    @WilliamC I tried to have a look under the microscope - but all I see is a jumble of fibers (~x30 magnification). So none the wiser.
    WilliamC likes this.
  22. WilliamC

    WilliamC Thru Hiker

    My experience with delaminating cuben is that you get very obvious flakes of mylar peeling off, leaving fuzzy strands of dyneema.
    If you look at an undamaged section cuben under the microscope, can you see the mylar film?
    Does the damaged area of the cuben appear to be the same on both sides?
  23. el manana

    el manana Thru Hiker

    Looking forward to seeing it @cathyjc :)
    cathyjc likes this.
  24. cathyjc

    cathyjc Thru Hiker

    Don't think the microscope I have (it's very old) is the correct tool for this job. Mounting the affected material on a slide isn't really possible :wacky:.

    I have had the magnifying glass out tho':-
    The undamaged DCF is covered by a shiny film = the mylar.
    The damaged area (and other worn areas) look like 'paper' to the naked eye and are lacking the shiny surface under the magnifyer.
    I'd conclude the mylar has "worn away" - rather than "peeled' off - as I cannot see any flakes ....... perhaps just a nicety in practical terms tho' :(.
  25. Lempo

    Lempo Thru Hiker

    Me too, I'd love to see more photos of the making it...

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