theoctagon
Thru Hiker
might ask a mate whos up top end of lakes to pop in for me ..so im asking for the black diamond round pole locks two 18mm and two 16mm that right ?
Get me a set please
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might ask a mate whos up top end of lakes to pop in for me ..so im asking for the black diamond round pole locks two 18mm and two 16mm that right ?
Edit: just remeasured the BD pole and one is 30mm to the centre and one is 28.5
30mm worked fine for me
Just want to confirm - this would mean around 7mm of slot showing above the flick-lock mech?
Full how-to in the myog/DIY section once you're done please chaps
Heather Rhodes reply about why flick locks not available on pacers
Thank you for the email re the Lever lock types. Pacerpoles are designed as the equiv of an add-on body part, keeping the weighting as near to the elbow pivot point as possible - as the body aims for minimum in-put for maximum effect.
The problem is that the weighting of the lower lever lock affects the action of the pole, stride after stride - and that the weight isn't central - especially noticeable at the weighting of the lower section. Perhaps you can get a better idea of why the 'weighting' is so important - then set your pacerpole (if you have them!) so you're ready-to-go; have it in your hand and gently swing the shaft off the ground forward-and-back a few times ....then turn it upside-down and grab the rubber ferrule/carbide tip and swing the pole again a few times. You'll notice that it will take more effort i.e. it's still the same pole - but it's where the weight is, which has an impact on the handling and therefore 'performance'; having a lower lever-lock affects the weighting. I wrote this in response to someone who was asking about putting lever locks on his pacerpoles - and then there was the follow-up ...and you'll notice the last sentence. So it depends if you are wanting to either maximise your walking potential, or your tent support....
"I managed to pick up a 2nd hand pair of Leki flick locks and gave them a go this weekend, boy what a difference, I just couldn't get on with them at all. It was the strap and conventional grip which didn't feel right, I put pressure back onto my legs and I tired so much faster than I'm used to with my Pacers. After coming over Scandale and onto Dove Crag we thought we'd have a look at the Priest Hole before continuing, on the way down the slope I slipped on a moss covered rock and went a cropper. In the process I'd managed to jam my pole into a gap in the rocks and couldn't free it as I went down, that really jarred my shoulder and arm but it also bent the middle shaft of my Leki clean in half. I think if I'd slipped on that same rock with my Pacers I'd have just let go, no aching arm and no bent pole, those straps on normal poles are useless to me now. I also realised how unbalanced the pole felt with the heavy flick-lock mechanism, I now understand what you told me about this."
It would seem that the new-to-pacerpole user with the tent scenario hasn't had time to experience the full benefit of how the Pacerpoles become part of the body, so you can flow along (check the animations and film clips etc on the website ....) on slopes or level ground. Perhaps think of the weighting/handling, as having an extra weight around your knee - so you won't be performing at your best.
Hope this has been helpful.
I've come back around to regular poles after 6-7 years. From the minor niggle of them being 'handed' to me not feeling pole placement on boulder fields & uneven ground being quite as natural & instinctive as with regular poles. On regular trails - no problem. I still use them sometimes in our local woods out with the dog.I have tried pacers. And walked with many users.
As far as I can see from use, observation and pacers claims and website info, to me it seems they are just an aid that by design makes one practice proper pole use and be aligned/have good posture - both of which are perfectly possible with normal poles and good straps/technique. If you can't be bothered to be mindful and practice the technique until it becomes automatic , then using Pacers is probably gonna be a revelation to you, as in use, it's impossible by their clever design not to do those things.
But, like Paramo, they have limitations too, which some converts can be blind to, as the limitations may not be reached by many users.
Ross - not getting at you, more the stance of those who claim that Pacers are so different that normal poles can't be used as effectively.
That's a blast from the past.Funny how they changed their minds - offered on the carbon fibre version & on the 'top section only' conversions.
I've come back around to regular poles after 6-7 years. From the minor niggle of them being 'handed' to me not feeling pole placement on boulder fields & uneven ground being quite as natural & instinctive as with regular poles. On regular trails - no problem. I still use them sometimes in our local woods out with the dog.
I'm a long-term Pacer Pole user, and the flick lock versions are a vast improvement (pity they didn't make the lower sections flick lock too...)That's a blast from the past.
Interesting, your experience.
I haven't changed my mind yet!
Conventional poles - yes, straps need to be used for efficient & pro-active use.I'm a long-term Pacer Pole user, and the flick lock versions are a vast improvement (pity they didn't make the lower sections flick lock too...)
I tried regular poles for a while but just found Pacer Poles much more natural and comfortable to hold and use. They also avoid using straps so it is easy to stick the poles in the ground and free your hands without having to remove a strap. To be honest I'm not really bothered by all the stuff on efficiency / technique.
However, for anyone who finds using conventional poles more natural I wouldn't bother with Pacer Poles. The Pacer Pole handles are awkward / bulky in making the poles difficult to pack, and pitching tents handles up doesn't really work neatly / at all. For me the downsides are worth it for comfort / convenience.
I presume you really need to be using the straps on conventional poles?
Thanks for the confirmation - personally I found having to use straps inconvenient and they felt a bit constraining.Conventional poles - yes, straps need to be used for efficient & pro-active use.
Check the earlier part of the thread re upgradimg to flicklocks & this thread: http://www.trek-lite.com/index.php?threads/pacer-pole-flicklock-mod.1366/
Without a doubt!If I wanted to make the lower section of my dual lock Pacer Poles flick lock I think there would be too much risk in damaging the carbon fibre trying to cut holes and slots in the material
Surely a tiny insignificant amount of ballast on tbe opposite side could counter that?I don't think the issue is the added weight alone, but more the fact that it's lopsided with the flicklock mechanism.
I'll see if Heather can jump on here and explain their reasons
Surely a tiny insignificant amount of ballast on tbe opposite side could counter that?