The "what have you made today" thread

Discussion in 'DIY & MYOG' started by Gadget, Jan 19, 2016.

  1. SimonM

    SimonM Trekker

    For a locked brummel Samson recommend 2.25fid lengths (1fid =21 x rope diameter).
  2. Teepee

    Teepee Thru Hiker

    For 1mm 8 strand?

    FWIW, The locked brummel is harder to make than a sewn splice and also weaker. I havent done a locked brummel in years, I just sew some thread down the splice with the machine.

    Samson is a good source for fid values, as is English Braids/Marlow, New England ropes, Gottifredi Maffioli, Lyros.
    SimonM likes this.
  3. SimonM

    SimonM Trekker

    Hi Teepee - Samson don't do 1mm but I think it would still stand, I use it for 1.75mm Zingit/Lashit with a locked Brummel. Personally I don't find it that difficult to do a locked brummel though I haven't tried 1mm yet. The weak point of a whoopie sling or UCR will at the point where the adjustable part exits the bury as there is a sudden transition in size - this is where a rope will break.
  4. Teepee

    Teepee Thru Hiker

    It will be a longer bury with 1mm but it's probably a moot point for this application. Liros do a 1mm hollow braid but I can't find the splicing info for it on their site. :facepalm:
    SimonM and paul like this.
  5. SimonM

    SimonM Trekker

    Here is the Liros splicing instructions and they say 40 x diameter which is even shorter. Is there any reason 1mm would be different? I admire you guys splicing 1mm that is some seriously small cord :).
    Teepee likes this.
  6. Teepee

    Teepee Thru Hiker

    40mm!? :eek::nailbiting: Their splicing video shows a bury about normal length. Their taper is 100mm :roflmao:.

    Besides, still good to find the data for a whoopie sling as it's usually a longer bury.
    SimonM likes this.
  7. SimonM

    SimonM Trekker

    40mm - does sound short doesn't it? Only one way to find out if it works :D. I usually do a bury of 90mm in 1.75mm Zingit including the taper.
  8. Meadows

    Meadows Section Hiker

    That's some interesting info there folks.
    I've been going with 50 X diameter for locked brummels and I measured my old Whoopie bury for new ones which were about 10 inches.
    My thought was that for a low load application like guy lines you could go shorter and have more adjustment.
    The Bury on my ridge line Whoopie, 2.2mm, i made shorter at about 25 X diameter and that seems to be ok
    Teepee and SimonM like this.
  9. Gadget

    Gadget Thru Hiker

    [​IMG]
    OK, OK, I didn't make a pair of Merrell Moabs, but I did make a hole disappear... and make them waterproof again!
    Bunged up a split near the toe with bathroom sealant.
    [​IMG]
    and smeared the bottom inch or so with the stuff too.
    3 days in, working pretty good so far.
    Bit disappointed the Merrells only lasted 6 months tho' (prolly knockoffs, I guess).
    gixer, Graham and paul like this.
  10. Whiteburn

    Whiteburn Thru Hiker

    Summer nest for the Duomid, 2.1m * 0.7m * 1.2 high, 253g inc tie outs.

    IMG_2088 (Medium).JPG

    36g/m2 cuben bathtub with 125mm walls; 27g/m2 ‘pertex’ walls 175mm high (225 at back); 27g/m2 no-see -um mesh; #3 zipper.
  11. Scotty Von Porkchop

    Scotty Von Porkchop Ultralighter

    Wow that's I seriously nice build!
  12. craige

    craige Thru Hiker

    Agreed, looks brilliant!
  13. Graham

    Graham Thru Hiker

    Looks 'the business' @Whiteburn and a good 200g lighter than my nest. Can't quite tell, looks like you didn't go for struts at the corners, the bathtub forms itself naturally through the design?
  14. Whiteburn

    Whiteburn Thru Hiker

    Found with my first go around (winter nest with 3 solid walls) that with correct positioning of the tie outs that the corner struts were unnecessary with the Duomid; obviously wouldn't pitch too well as a stand alone bug shelter.
  15. Graham

    Graham Thru Hiker

    Smiley Ron Cone Sleeve

    My original Trail Designs Sidewinder Tyvek cone sleeve was getting a bit tatty at the top and bottom. Replacement took 5 minutes:

    1. Take one Tyvek envelope as used by Ron etc.
    2. Remove expensive gear from envelope under cover of darkness (covert)
    3. Use existing envelope as is i.e. 2 ply or if Ron has deviated from his standard smiley dimensions, cut the envelope at its glued edges and fold that in two to ensure you get all the smiley
    4. Mark out TD original cone sleeve on envelope material and cut or use as a template and simply cut around it.
    5. Stitch the seam, which will be slightly curved.

    Enjoy! :)


    20160419_123643 (small).jpg 20160419_123543 (small).jpg
  16. Scotty Von Porkchop

    Scotty Von Porkchop Ultralighter

    Kevlar composite pot lids.

    I bought some kevlar for a chew resistant food bag but it was a disaster, the weave easily pulled apart. Anyway I thought a composite lid would be cool so a trip to the pound shop for epoxy resin and Teflon cookie sheet. Watered down the epoxy with alcohol, and made a soaked small 3 layer, a soaked 3 layer with curved edges (unfortunately with bubbles!) and a 5 layer which was three layers of sticky, starting to set mess so I quickly stuck a layer on each side.






    PICT_20160419_223002.JPG
    Meadows, Gadget, Graham and 3 others like this.
  17. Graham

    Graham Thru Hiker

    Interesting project, I like the basic disk lid. What do you think the advantages are over say a Reflectix or foil lid - might it melt at the point of contact with the pot rim?
    Have you had chance to pop them on the weighing scales?
  18. Scotty Von Porkchop

    Scotty Von Porkchop Ultralighter

    Well they're definitely more robust than foil and kevlar is fire resistant, I've no idea about how insulating it'll be. I did try the Sierra cup with decent sized alcohol flames up on the edges and it coped very well.

    Weight for the formed lid 18g, flat 5 layer 28g and the little one 11g

    I think with a proper skill set and materials a 2 layer would be sufficient and probably in the 12g region for a 14cm pot. Unfortunately my attempt was a bit cack-handed.
    Graham likes this.
  19. Graham

    Graham Thru Hiker

    If it was easy it'd be less interesting.:)

    On the melting question I was thinking more about the epoxy than the kevlar.
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2016
    Scotty Von Porkchop likes this.
  20. Scotty Von Porkchop

    Scotty Von Porkchop Ultralighter

    Very true ☺

    My tests haven't been at all thorough yet but the epoxy browned slightly in direct flame contact. Other than that I've no idea if it's toxic, safe etc. My 5 layer disc one is pure kevlar on the outside and I presume that'll be fine with a bit of a flame
  21. paul

    paul Thru Hiker

    Id guess epoxy in contact with flame will give off some nasties but most of it will go into the air rather than pot contents ans its not like we camp on a daily basis. Id consider my liability before i flogged any though :D
    Scotty Von Porkchop likes this.
  22. Scotty Von Porkchop

    Scotty Von Porkchop Ultralighter

    I'll have to get them smooth and flat before I could sell, it surely can't be more poisonous than a sigg..... PICT_20160420_182433.JPG

    Ended up drinking the inner coating! Swiss quality

    BTW it didn't flake off while it was cut this happened in about a month of daily use at the gym. Still one can never be satisfied with a stove setup, another fancee feast..

    Oh a Sigg have no money back guarantee of anything.
    paul likes this.
  23. slovhike

    slovhike Thru Hiker

    Finally conical drill bit arrived and I was able to put vent holes into the windscreen I made weeks ago..of course it was time to do some drybaking for the test..so far so good:)

    Attached Files:

  24. Tartanferret

    Tartanferret Thru Hiker

    Lovely results @slovhike, looks tasty :D

    But hungerly look at it for a while an it looks like an angry crab :eek:

    Nice work !!
  25. slovhike

    slovhike Thru Hiker

    @Tartanferret it snapped in half while i was removing it from the pan:)...it didn't last long..;)
    thank you for kind words :)
    Tartanferret likes this.

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