To Raglan sleeve or not to Raglan sleeve

Discussion in 'Clothing & Footwear' started by Cranston, Aug 19, 2020.

  1. Cranston

    Cranston Thru Hiker

    Thinking of doing some clothes making.
    Anyone used a NON Raglan sleeve top under a rucksack with about 10 kgs max and had an issue with pressure from the seam causing pain with the set-up following- I am aiming for the one sleeve seam to sit about 2-3 cms down to the front from the highest point of the shoulder because for me it will be easier to join the sleeve to the bodice this way. So not directly on the highest point of the shoulder. Pretty standard I think.
    For anyone who is not sure a Raglan sleeve creates two shoulder seams rather than one, that is -one sleeve seam is in to the front (and down) of the shoulder and the other sleeve seam is well behind and lower than the shoulder. The idea that rucksack straps and their weight would not sit on or near a seam.
    I have several fleeces with this one slightly dropped seam to the front and not noticed any pain or discomfort. But I've not carried any weight with one. I think it would be fine.
    Any explicit Nayes or Ayes?
    Ta
  2. Heltrekker

    Heltrekker Ultralighter

    Seems logical to me to avoid having seams on top of the shoulder. I tend to look for t-shirts and fleeces with raglan sleeves, or sleeves on the diagonal (i.e. sleeve goes from underarm to collar) as one problem I'm sure you've never experienced is carrying 10kg in a pack if you have a seam along the shoulder on top of a bra strap. You can get away with it on a light load, but on multi-day hikes, it's a killer!!!!!
    Cranston likes this.
  3. Lempo

    Lempo Thru Hiker

    Can't really comment, as I haven't experienced as such, but I have experience of making patterns. For example I've made a pair of trousers which had the seams in the front and the back, basically seams were the pleats, and no side seams. I just modified the pattern. It's usually pretty simple to do.

    If you wish to move the shoulder seam more into from or the back...

    1. tape the front & back pattern pieces together on the shoulder stream. You could just leave it like this, but this would be wasting a lot of fabric potentially.
    2. Decide a new seam line, and cut along it.
    3. Now you have front and back pattern pieces with a relocated shoulder seam.

    shirt-sewing-pattern-pieces-540.jpg

    Now it's not always as clear cut (!) as this. Sometimes the seams have a catenary cut, to taper or create volume to follow the contour of the body. You may need to play around or even create a fitting piece from some cheap fabric how it looks & works in 3d / real life.
    Cranston likes this.
  4. Cranston

    Cranston Thru Hiker

    Ta. Yes, that cut on the shoulder you are showing is what I would get and I'm pretty sure I'd be alright. Just wondered if anyone had issues with more weight in the shoulder region.
  5. Cranston

    Cranston Thru Hiker

    Ouch!
    I'm safe at the moment but if necessary I'll have to 'go the bro'
    Clip A


    Clip B
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2020
    Heltrekker likes this.
  6. Lempo

    Lempo Thru Hiker

    I found Rocktape to be extremely versatile to prevent rubbing, protect skin, fixing things etc. The benefit is the elasticity that allows the skin move underneath compared to normal medical tape.

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