Ultralight via ferrata gear

[tom]

Has anybody played with creating or putting together ultralight via ferrata gear? I'm planning for some of the Alta Via routes in the Dolomites this summer and most people seem to leave the gear to save weight and detour around the via ferrata sections which would be shame as they are usually the highlights of any route. My old kit is at the end of its life span anyway. So far I found the Camp USA Alp Racing Harness at 96 gr, the Edelrid Cable UL2 at 285gr and even a 165gr helmet from Petzl (Sirocco) which would save more than half the weight of what I've had. Any better (or cheaper) ideas anyone?

 

[edh]

Not really. I did some hut to hut stuff a while back with kit not as light as that. They are fun!

 

[Quixoticgeek]

The thing to remember with Via Ferrata is that most of what we learn with climbing kinda goes out the window. In traditional rock climbing, unless you are a catastrophic numpty, the highest fall factor you should ever experience is 2. With Via ferrata tho, you can easily hit fall factors of 10+. This means that you can really start to push the limits of kit.

It was watching a video from DMM that really brought it home to me.

http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/

With that in mind, I find myself looking at that harness and wondering a) how strong will it be and b) will it effectively crush me if I fall? Worryingly, while the Camp site say it's UICC and CE rated, it does't say to what. Worth thinking about.

Check that Petzl helmet is rated for side/front/back impacts, as well as top impact.

J

 

[tom]

Julia, thanks for that and for finding that video. I had no idea that knots made for such weak spots. Obviously best to avoid them altogether and to keep slack as minimal as possible. Manufactured via ferrata lanyards have long included break systems to compensate for the fall factors but these have been under-accounted for it seems. After a fatal accident in 2012, UIAA initiated a mayor recall of via ferrata lanyards - mostly the rope brake type - which included all the big brands. There was a second "precautionary" recall about a year ago after more testing. The current generation of kits all seem to rely on fabric shock absorbers as I'm not seeing any new rope break systems any more.

I think the harness should not be an issue if the lanyard break system works. Much of the harness weight is made up of comfort and gear loops. This camp alp racing harness is quite minimalist on both fronts which makes it not much use to climb with or sit in but I've seen no indication that its any weaker than others. Its been developed to improve the well regarded Camp Alp95 with extra comfort without adding weight. There doesn't seem to be any info on side/front/back impact for the Petzl but a helmet's main aim is protect from people above kicking stones loose which I guess this one does. I used to not take any helmet on multi day trips - have to find a sale though...

 

[edh]

The best idea is not to fall off - in my opinion falling off a ferrata route would be far more serious than a rock climb (unless at really low grades); there is just too much rock furniture to hit on many ferrata routes.

Sorry about the singing

 

[gixer]

Amazing pic Ed, that you?

 

[edh]

I'm the fat one in the video...

That's my Bro. I always send him first..

 

[Quixoticgeek]

Julia, thanks for that and for finding that video. I had no idea that knots made for such weak spots. Obviously best to avoid them altogether and to keep slack as minimal as possible. Manufactured via ferrata lanyards have long included break systems to compensate for the fall factors but these have been under-accounted for it seems. After a fatal accident in 2012, UIAA initiated a mayor recall of via ferrata lanyards - mostly the rope brake type - which included all the big brands. There was a second "precautionary" recall about a year ago after more testing. The current generation of kits all seem to rely on fabric shock absorbers as I'm not seeing any new rope break systems any more.

I knew knots weakened things, I didn't realise how much. The effect of slack was quite a shock too.

I didn't know about the UIAA recall. But that does follow logically. I'd like to try via ferrata at some point but fear my fear of heights may be a problem...

I think the harness should not be an issue if the lanyard break system works. Much of the harness weight is made up of comfort and gear loops. This camp alp racing harness is quite minimalist on both fronts which makes it not much use to climb with or sit in but I've seen no indication that its any weaker than others. Its been developed to improve the well regarded Camp Alp95 with extra comfort without adding weight. There doesn't seem to be any info on side/front/back impact for the Petzl but a helmet's main aim is protect from people above kicking stones loose which I guess this one does. I used to not take any helmet on multi day trips - have to find a sale though...

The reason I asked that about the helmet, is that a fall in Via Ferrata is more likely to result in you banging your head, either against the ironwork or the rock. The easiest way to compromise a helmet is by sticking to the very letter of the testing procedure. Most tests seem to be based on an item falling vertically onto the helmet. That said, the technology has come on a bit since I last looked into it all, so that may have changed.

Julia

 

[tom]

Nice picture and clip Ed! The Brenta traverse is the longest (I think) and one of the more difficult via ferratas (and located in the steepest part of the Dolomites). I love the Brenta - its stunningly beautiful - and conveniently close to my family in Arco.

The best idea is not to fall off - in my opinion falling off a ferrata route would be far more serious than a rock climb (unless at really low grades); there is just too much rock furniture to hit on many ferrata routes.

Interestingly, serious accidents are actually quite rare on via ferratas and much more common in less spectacular places it seems. Maybe people concentrate on these routes, I certainly do. Likewise on the GR20 in Corsica - there hasn't been a single fatality in the cirque de la solitude (the technically most difficult section) I am told but they do regularly occur elsewhere in less exposed locations. And the biggest hazzard there is lightening apparently.
Hope I'm doing quoting business right - still learning...

 

[edh]

The most dangerous thing in the Cirque de la Solitude is other people!

Knew I had a pic somewhere....

 

[Quixoticgeek]

Tom,

If you'll excuse the thread necromancy, How are you getting on with your via ferrata set? Did you get the Edelrid lanyard set?

Cheers

J

 

[tom]

Tom,

If you'll excuse the thread necromancy, How are you getting on with your via ferrata set? Did you get the Edelrid lanyard set?

Cheers

J

I did indeed Julia - along with Camp Racing Harness and Petzl helmet and I'm really happy with the gear. The Edelrind kit is a bit heavier than advertised but still a very respectable 320gr and I was contend to carry it on 2 week Alta Via hike in the Dolomites this summer. Just used it again last week on the Via Ferrata dell'Amicizia - Cima SAT. Nice autumn day day out, 1200 meter straight up from Riva del Garda, the via ferrata consists of the upper 650meter. Here are a few pictures:

 

[tom]

I'll be doing some Dolomiti high routes again this year - trails which include "via ferrata" sections - so the issue of my UL protective kit came up for a review I can share.


I still have my edelrid kit (bottom) but I've only used this for the most demanding routes in recent years. Via ferrata's are rated from 1 to 5 for technical difficulty and A to C for exposure. For routes rated 1, 2 or 3 (regardless of exposure rating), I consider the 2nd clip too distracting (almost more of a safety liability). And in any case, on most such routes, the via ferrata kit is more of a backup or precaution (for bad weather or if I need to assist someone in trouble) and not needed most of the time in good conditions. So I will be taking just my "basic" kit (315gr) consisting of a 75cm Simond self belay lanyard along with a 120cm "sling". Thats a good weight saving compared to my "full" kit at 480gr with the same harness and sling but the Edelrid VF instead of the lanyard.

Both sets include the minimalist "Camp Alp Racing" harness (92gr) - the lightest fully certified harness on the market and the sling ( a multi use precaution tool with minimal weight penalty)


The Petzl Sirocco helmet (with a myog velcro sun-shield) weighs 170gr but is only really needed on routes with people further above and not essential for traversing routes (unless its a short section or day hike when weight is not an issue).

 

[edh]

Timely, thanks.

 

[edh]

I've just replaced my ageing kit....helmet, carabiners, and harness weighing in at 632g....

..... I'll probably add a spectra sling and biner which will move the weight up a little...

 

[Quixoticgeek]

I've just replaced my ageing kit....helmet, carabiners, and harness weighing in at 632g....
View attachment 45313
..... I'll probably add a spectra sling and biner which will move the weight up a little...

What did you go for in the end ?

J

 

[edh]

Petzl Sirocco helmet
Edelrid Ultralite VI cable kit
Blue Ice Choucas Light harness

 

[echo8876]

resurrecting this topic
i have one 50m ferrata section (Clavijas de cotatuero) on a 70k trip. there is a way to bypass it that will cost me 5 miles and probably 300m gain, so 3 hours.

i'm thinking of packing just a sling + carabiner + super light harness, no helmet, no kit. I'm not going to fall, it's a bit sketchy, and i cannot control rain that makes whole affair quite risky. or i can just send it if it's dry and go around if it's wet.

 

[tom]

Clavijas de cotatuero looks fine with minimal (or no) kit if you're experienced (and prepared to turn back) - a 2C probably. Here's some route info. I do early starts when I'm without helmet on longer hikes - people above are the main risk - and clipping-in is rarely neccesary anyway (mostly for backup, climbing overhang sections or to assist others).

 

[echo8876]

Clavijas de cotatuero looks fine with minimal (or no) kit if you're experienced (and prepared to turn back) - a 2C probably. Here's some route info. I do early starts when I'm without helmet on longer hikes - people above are the main risk - and clipping-in is rarely neccesary anyway (mostly for backup, climbing overhang sections or to assist others).

I'm going to descend from Brèche de Roland to Faja de Flores, and then i have a choice either go down or continue to De Goriz via traverse. Guess ill just decide on spot, it doesn't look any worse than stuff i usually do without any hardware.

 

[Mole]

We went up to it in 2016. Local Spanish couple going up said we shouldn't attempt it with full 50l packs. But we met Austrians coming down with no gear who said it was fine. Anyhow, in the end, my partner decided she didn't want to do it, so we descended again and took the Faja to the head of the main canyon. I suspect you'd be ok.

 

[tom]

In @Mole's and other pics, it looks ok (and not much use for hardware anyway...) but down can be more tricky than up and especially loaded up - I'd probably take a sling or 2 (to lower the pack down if needed) if was going down... It looks a beautiful trail. I was tempted my only time in the canyon but it was too risky on a thunderstorm day.

 

[dave_g]

So I will be taking just my "basic" kit (315gr) consisting of a 75cm Simond self belay lanyard along with a 120cm "sling".

i'm thinking of packing just a sling + carabiner + super light harness, no helmet, no kit.

I gather you both know what you are doing given other posts - but I understand using short lengths of rope/slings on VF is a big no no. If you do fall, it's likely the FF will break either you or the protection without the dampening effect provided by a VF set.

Are you just carrying the protection in case you need to tie in hard or are you actually clipping to the cable with it?

Either way, perhaps worth highlighting to any less knowledgeable readers considering giving it a try that using such protection for VF is very dangerous.

Via ferrata with Petzl Connect adjustable PAS - genius or YGD?

Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers.

www.mountainproject.com

 

[echo8876]

On this route there is no fall. Aka sliding to a next anchor. Yes, I'm carrying protection for tying in, because I don't know the route and may need a minute to contemplate a move.
Either way the next day I have this bad step to crawl down with no aid at all.

 

[Run_Hike_Meat_Repeat]

Some years ago in Italy we winged it along sections of a via ferreta route ,in the dark with large backpacks, using a @treadlitegear key fob torch . (but that's a story for around a stove )

afterwards looking back on reflection it was probably the most stupidest and dangerous thing I've ever done.

We later learnt, that A Walker had taken a fall along a vertical route section in the same mountain range.
it was highlighted that it was his helmet which had prevented serious permanent brain damage, thanks to its side impact & crush resistance .
He suffered a multitude of life altering Grievous injuries.
One of the strangest things I recall about that route was on a particularly 'salty' section , there was a load of straw on the path and littering on the Rocks below.


It was as if someone had rolled a bale of straw from the rock above.

To this day I cannot fathom how anyone would get a bale of straw up that mountain and why the straw was there !