Dan Durston/Massdrop X-Mid

theoctagon

Thru Hiker
Still about a year away isn’t it?

From the recent mailer:

In other news, the X-Mid 2P is nearing completion. We have been through numerous design generations and arrived at a final design that we think is ready for production. These prototypes are currently out with testers as a final effort to identify any issues or aspects we can further improve, but quite likely we will be offering this design beginning in about 6-9 weeks as a pre-sale, with tents delivered sometime around the end of the year.
 

Balagan

Thru Hiker
Do they ship direct to the UK or through some other hub?
Some of the stuff I bought from Massdrop has shipped direct and some through Germany. In all cases, it was pretty fast once I received the "shipped" email.
 
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DuneElliot

Section Hiker
I was just looking at the video for the set-up of the X-Mid and didn't see Dan using guylines on the corner. I think this could be issue (no guylines means no adjustment for rocks and roots etc).

Is this something that may change? It would be one of those things that would be kind of a deal-breaker for me on buying the 2P. (I really want to, but the inability to adjust a pitch depending on a campsite is pretty important). I have loved having the linelocs on both my trekking pole tents (and my Duplex always pitched much better for having them compared to my friend's Duplex which was an older model without them).

Just my thoughts. Anyone else?
 

Robin

Moderator
Staff member
B16B7F7E-BAAB-468E-B33D-335F0BC789B7.jpeg

At 4:01 on the video you can see the corner tie outs have lineloks. So does the peak guy.
 

craige

Thru Hiker
Yeah, it does have corner adjustments, overbuilt ones too. He shows them in the video but doesn't use them during setup, I guess to show how simple it is to set up?
 

dandurston

Section Hiker
A couple comments on these:

1) In addition to adding flexibility in where you can put the stake, the LineLoc3's at the corners also act as an extension of the fly during the pitch, By that I meant that if you set the cords longer then the whole fly pitches higher, and vice versa. So that's a variable to consider if you want it pitched low to block spindrift or high for more venting. Note that if you do pitch it high, you can loosen the buckles where the inner connects at the peaks, so the floor isn't raised up as well. If the floor gets pulled up then it effectively becomes narrower.

2) In the stock configuration there is about 20cm of cord at each corner. If you like to pitch your tent quite high, then may wish to replace this with even longer cord. I kept the amount of cord not too generous because inexperienced users will pitch it with inconsistent cord lengths at each corner, which can tilt the pitch. This is imperceivable if the cords are only 5-10cm different, but you had three cords set to 5cm and that last one set to 40cm then it would make for an odd pitch. Advanced users can intentionally use inconsistent corner guyline lengths to compensate for uneven ground, but most of this is spitting hairs.

3) There are also two LineLoc3's at each door (one on each side). These are probably overkill, especially the one on the larger side of the door zipper that you actually use as the door. I've never used this one, and you could snip these to save a bit of weight if desired.
 
How high do you suppose you would get the fly (edge) off the ground with the stock 20 cm cords extended all the way out Dan?
Would you get 5-10 cms do you reckon?
 

dandurston

Section Hiker
I just went downstairs and measured. You can adjust the fly height from 3cm to 14cm off the ground. That's pitched on a plywood floor in my basement. If the ground had a few cms of vegetation on it, then you could pull the bottom edge down to the vegetation if you wanted. You could also get it even lower by staking it behind the LineLoc3 if you really want it in "limpet mode" (great term).

Note that if you do have the cords extended when you pitch it then you will end up staking out a larger rectangle (and vice versa). So if you pitch it with the cords short and then later wish to lengthen them, you could just do that and extend the poles to pull it tight but that's not quite right. It's a bit wonky because you've effectively staked out too small of a rectangle and then pulled it extra tall to compensate. If you're going to substantially lengthen the cords (e.g. from 5cm to 20cm) the ideal way to do it is to move the stakes out when you extend the cords and then lengthen the poles.

I normally pitch it with the cords near the middle of their range so I have enough adjustability to make it both longer or shorter if needed. That's normally not needed because the polyester doesn't sag, but sometimes you might want to change something.
 
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